Florist Supplies Guide

The protea family (Proteaceae) includes a wide range of ground covers, trees and shrubs that often make superb garden plants. While some of the species are frost-tender, they are in all other respects remarkably resilient plants that often thrive in situations where others would rapidly succumb. Poor soils and hot dry positions that scarcely seem capable of supporting life are often ideal for Proteaceae. If any plants could be said to thrive on neglect the proteas can.

Proteas (the term is often used collectively as well as for the genus itself) are a variable group. Indeed, the family was named after Proteus, a Greek god capable of changing his shape at will. It includes some 60 genera and 1400 species of Southern Hemisphere plants, the bulk of which are native to southern Africa and Australia with the remainder coming from South America and many of the Pacific islands, including two species (Knightia excelsa and Toronia toru) from New Zealand.

There is an enormous variety of foliage among the proteas. It is almost always evergreen, but may be needle-like, as with many grevilleas; long, narrow and serrated like that of Dryandra formosa; or rounded and leathery like the leaves of Protea cynaroides. Some genera, particularly Leucadendron, include species with brightly coloured foliage, the intensity of which varies with the season. Leucadendron stems retain their colour for weeks when cut and are an important part of the cut flower industry.

Protea flowers are composed of clusters of narrow tubes that are often curved. These ’spider’ flowers are seen at their simplest in the two native species and some of the grevilleas. In many cases what appears to be the flower is actually a bract of brightly coloured leaves surrounding the true flowers. The most impressive example of this is the dinner plate-sized flower head of Protea cynaroides. The flowering season also varies; many proteas and grevilleas flower in winter, while leucospermums tend to flower in summer. With careful selection it is possible to plants in flower all year round.

The flowers often contain large quantities of nectar that many birds relish. Some species have very sticky flowers that will trap visiting insects, especially bees an this slightly sinister side of the flower appears to serve no particular purpose.

The South African and Australian Proteaceae tend to be at their best in warm, dry conditions and often thrive in coastal areas. Inland, unseasonable early and late frosts often kill all but the hardiest specimens. The South American genera tend to be hardier and prefer somewhat damper conditions. Embothrium in particular, can withstand hard frosts and is grown over most of the country. But where winter temperatures regularly drop to -6?C or lower, most proteas require frost protection.

Cultivation

Other than a suitable climate, the key to success with proteas is establishing the right soil conditions. The protea family is mainly adapted to mineral based soils that drain very quickly and which often have low nutrient levels. These soils tend to be moderately acid and are often especially low in phosphates.

Good drainage is absolutely essential. Rich loams and heavy clays do not make good protea soils. If you have a heavy soil do not try to improve it by adding sand or shingle as this will often make the problem worse; the soil binds with the sand and shingle and sets like concrete. Instead add more humus. Proteas would not appreciate the rapid burst of nutrients from a rich compost so the humus used should be fairly low in nutrients. Natural leaf mould and rotted pine needles work well. To avoid these materials compacting down into a poor draining thatch, incorporate about 50% fine shingle grit by volume and combine the mix with the existing soil.

Most proteaceous plants come from areas with low rainfall or where the rains are strictly seasonal. Many are coastal plants although most of the South African genera include alpine or sub-alpine species. Knightia from New Zealand and Embothrium from Chile are exceptions; they usually occur away from the coast, in areas where rainfall is quite high and not seasonal. Nevertheless, they still demand excellent drainage.

Although proteas are remarkably resilient and not difficult to grow there seems to be some common myths regarding their cultivation. Like most myths these have some basis in fact, but they can be misleading.

Myth 1: feeding proteas will kill them.

That’s not strictly true. Proteas need nutrients just like any other plant, but their are a little more exacting than some. It’s not fertiliser that does the damage but high phosphate levels and intense bursts of nutrients that lead to overly rapid growth. Avoid most general garden fertilisers, fresh animal manures and anything with added superphosphate. Because proteas will tolerate poor soils, it is often easier not to feed them rather than risk damage, but you’ll certainly get better results if you apply a slow release, low phosphate fertiliser in late winter and mid summer. This will keep the plants growing slowly but steadily; any bolting into growth tends to weaken them.

Myth 2: proteas only grow near the coast.

Not true. Many proteaceous plants come from inland areas. They will tolerate salt breezes but there is no general preference for coastal conditions.

Myth 3: proteas like wind.

That’s also not entirely true. Proteaceous plants do not tolerate wet foliage or high humidity for long periods and in areas prone to these conditions extra ventilation will help reduce the incidence of fungal diseases. However, most proteas have brittle branches that snap or split in strong winds so there’s no reason to presume that they prefer windy locations.

Myth 4: proteas need a hot sunny position.

Yes, most Proteaceae prefer full sun or something near to it. But that doesn’t necessarily mean the hottest, most baked position you can find. Although they will survive severe conditions once established, extreme heat and drought will cause damage, especially to young plants. Shade from the hottest sun will prolong the flower display and, provided the drainage is good, occasional deep watering is also recommended.

Myth 5: proteas are short-lived.

Some are and some aren’t. Old plants are normally removed long before the end of their natural lives because they tend to become rather woody and untidy. You can generally reckon on a useful lifetime of at least 8 years for Leucadendron and Leucospermum, and around 12 years for Protea. However, large species, such as Grevillea robusta and Banksia integrifolia, may continue to be effective garden plants for several decades.

Planting

Most proteaceous plants are sold in containers and are ready to plant right away. However, the best planting time depends on your climate. Autumn or winter is best in mild areas as this is when moisture requirements are at their lowest, while spring is the preferred time if regular frosts are expected as this allows the young plants to get well established before having to endure winter conditions.

Start by digging a hole at least twice the size of the plant’s container, this large volume of loose soil will encourage good root development.. Additional drainage material can be added to the hole if necessary, otherwise planting is just a matter of removing the plant from its container, loosening any spiralling roots before placing in the hole, then refilling the hole and firming the plant into position. Large specimens will require staking to prevent wind damage.

Cut flower use

Many proteaceous plants make excellent long-lasting cut flowers. Leucadendrons in particular are widely planted solely for the purpose of providing material for floral decorations. Protea, Leucospermum, Banksia and Serruria flowers can all be used to make impressive large arrangements while the less dramatic blooms of Grevillea and Isopogon are better suited to more dainty work.

Some flowers, particularly goblet-shaped Protea flowers dry well although they do tend to disintegrate rather suddenly after a few months. Other genera such as Banksia and Leucadendron produce seed heads or cones that can be used in dried arrangements.

Pruning

Most proteaceous plants need occasional trimming and tidying. This may be to improve their growth habit or to remove old flowers or seed heads that have become dry and unsightly.

How far to cut back is the usual question. This varies with the genera, although as a rule only light pruning is recommended as there is a general reluctance among proteas to reshoot from bare wood. Of the common genera Banksia and Grevillea will withstand hard trimming, as will Leucadendron, Telopea and Mimetes, but pruning of Dryandra, Leucospermum, Serruria, Paranomus and most Protea species should be restricted to a light annual trimming.

The best time to prune is usually immediately after flowering unless you want to leave a few seed heads to mature for use as dried decorations. In areas where there is the possibility of frost damage, it is advisable to leave pruning autumn and winter-flowering plants until spring.

Container Growing

Some proteaceae can make good container plants, but you will have to be careful with your choice of potting mixes and fertilisers. Potting mixes need to be very free draining and often benefit from added coarse material such as shingle chips or pumice. Bark based mixes seem to work well but some growers feel they produce too much ethylene, which may harm the plants in the long run. Many commercial growers use soil based mixes and they generally prefer relatively poor and gritty volcanic soils.

Even plants with low nutrient demands will eventually exhaust their potting mix, so you will have to apply fertiliser occasionally. Use mild liquid fertilisers or special low-phosphate slow release pellets. Provided you are cautious the plants should respond well.

Propagation

Proteas can be frustratingly difficult plants to propagate. Fresh seed often germinates well only for the seedlings to collapse after a few weeks. This is usually due to a fungal disease that blackens the foliage and eventually kills the young seedlings. Regular fungicide applications are important. Prick out the young seedlings into a coarse, free draining, unfertilised potting mix once they have their first true leaves.

Cultivars and selected forms must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings in late summer and autumn. The success rate varies markedly; some cultivars, such as Leucadendron ‘Safari Sunset’, strike quite easily while many others may be virtually impossible without professional equipment.

Pests and Diseases

Grown under the right conditions proteaceous plants are relatively free of pests and diseases, or rather they’re not attacked by anything out of the ordinary. The most widespread problems are leaf roller caterpillars and scale insects, which can eventually lead to sooty mould.

When growing proteas from seed you will doubtless lose some to the fungal disease mentioned above. This disease, which appears to be a type of damping off, can sometimes also attack more mature plants. It appears to be far worse in excessively wet conditions or after long periods of high humidity. Good ventilation and avoidance of overcrowding are effective preventatives and regular spraying with fungicides may control the problem.

Common genera

Many of these plants are not widely available at garden centres, although specialist growers would consider them to be just the most common genera and are likely to stock others as well. All of the species and genera covered here are evergreen unless otherwise stated.

Aulax

This is a South African genus of small to medium sized shrubs. This genus and Leucadendron are the only dioecious (separate male and female plants) members of the Proteaceae. Seed of all three species, Aulax cancellata, Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, is available but only Aulax cancellata is commonly planted. It grows to 1.5-2m ? 1m and has fine needle-like leaves. In spring, female plants produce red edged yellow flowers that develop into red seed cones. The catkin-like male flowers are yellow, as are those of Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, the female flowers of which are not very showy. Aulax pallasia grows to about 3 m and Aulax umbellata about 1.5m. All are hardy to about -5?C and are usually raised from seed.

Banksia

An Australian genus of about 60 species, ranging in size from ground covers to medium-sized trees. The flowering season is primarily from late winter to late spring and most species have cylindrical cone-like flower heads composed of densely packed filamentous styles radiating from a central core. Creamy yellow to light golden-yellow is the predominant colour range, although a few species, such as Banksia ericifolia and Banksia praemorsa, have golden-orange flowers and those of Banksia coccinea are red. Most species have narrow serrated leaves that are mid to deep green above and silvery grey on the undersides but Banksia ericifolia has fine needle-like leaves. Leaf size varies from very small up to the 50cm long leaves of Banksia grandis. Hardiness varies with the species, some are quite frost tender but some will tolerate -10?C.

Relatively few are seen in nurseries but the seed of most species can be obtained from Australia. Banksia ericifolia and Banksia integrifolia are the most widely grown and are also the hardiest of the common species, both withstanding -10?C once well established. There are hardly any cultivars or selected forms of Banksia in cultivation. Species may be raised from seed and most will also strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings.

Dryandra

An Australian genus of around 60 species of shrubs ranging in height from about 1-4 m. Most have narrow, mid to deep green leaves that are often very long and narrow with sharply toothed edges. The rounded flower heads, which appear from mid winter, are usually light to bright yellow. The most common species is Dryandra formosa, which grows to about 3m and is hardy to around -5?C once established (most of the other species are less hardy). Dryandras are superb long-lasting cut flowers and some will also dry well. They will grow on extremely poor soil and generally react badly to most fertilisers. Raise from seed or semi-ripe cuttings, which are often difficult to strike.

Embothrium

The Chilean Fire Bush (Embothrium coccineum) is a small tree around 5m ? 2.5m. It has 100mm long, leathery, bright green leaves that may become somewhat sparse on older plants. In mid to late spring the tree turns vivid orange-red as the honeysuckle-like tubular flowers open -?the flowering season is brief but spectacular. Two forms are grown: ‘Longifolium’ and ‘Lanceolatum’; ‘Longifolium’ is the more common cultivar. It is a vigorous upright plant that is quite drought tolerant and hardy to about -10?C. ‘Lanceolatum’ is a stockier grower with narrow leaves. It demands more moisture but withstands harder frosts, up to -15?C with some protection. However, in very cold winters it may lose up to two thirds of its foliage. Overall Embothrium requires more moisture than most Proteaceae but good drainage is still important. It may be grown from seed but is usually propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.

Grevillea

With some 250 species, this is the largest of the Australian proteaceous genera. Most of the common garden species and cultivars are ground covers to medium-sized shrubs (up to 3m) with needle-like foliage. However, some species are far larger. The silky oak (Grevillea robusta), which is often seen in mild area, can grow to 20m and in common with most of the larger species it has large pinnate leaves. Grevillea banksii has similar foliage but only grows to about 3.5m ? 3m.

The more densely foliaged plants, especially Grevillea juniperina and Grevillea rosmarinifolia, are often used as hedging plants. These plants grow to at least 1.5m high.

Grevillea flowers are often describe as ’spider flowers’. This refers to the styles of some species, which tend to radiate from the centre like a spider’s legs. Some species have ‘toothbrush’ flowers; the styles are all on one side like the bristles of a toothbrush. The best known example of this type of flower is the common red-flowered cultivar ‘Robin Hood’.

Many Grevillea cultivars are?cultivated and they generally adapt well to?garden conditions. Among the more popular are ‘Jenkinsii’ (a heavy flowering form of the red-flowered Grevillea rosmarinifolia), ‘Robyn Gordon’ (orange-red to red toothbrush flowers) ?gaudichaudii (deep red), ‘Austraflora Canterbury Gold’ (light golden yellow) and many of the Poorinda cultivars. Grevilleas are among the more widely available proteaceous plants and most nurseries stock a good selection.

The species and hybrids vary enormously in hardiness. Some will stand little or no frost but others, such as Grevillea rosmarinifolia, will tolerate frosts of -10?C or lower; all prefer full sun with good drainage. The species are easily raised from seed and most hybrids strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer or autumn.

Hakea

This Australian genus includes about 130 species, few of which are widely cultivated. The most common is probably Hakea laurina, the Pincushion Hakea. When not in flower, this species could easily be mistaken for a small eucalyptus. It has bluish-green narrow, oblong to sickle-shaped leaves and reddish-brown bark. It grows to about 6m ? 4m and mature trees have a slightly weeping habit. The name pincushion refers to the flowers, which are spherical, with numerous radiating styles. They appear in late autumn and early winter, opening cream and turning to orange and red as they age. This shrub is hardy to about -5?C once well established and is easily grown in most well-drained soils.

Of the other species, the most common are Hakea salicifolia, Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea. They are hardy to about -8?C or slightly lower and are easily grown in most soils. Hakea salicifolia has narrow, willow-like leaves, spidery, white flowers that are produced in spring. It grows up to 5m high and will tolerate poor drainage. Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea have fine needle-like leaves and white or pale pink flowers in winter and early spring. It grows to about 3m ? 2m. All member of this genus are usually raised from seed but some can be grown from cuttings. A few, such as H. franciscana, are weak growers that often perform better when grafted onto more vigorous stocks, such as Hakea salicifolia.

Isopogon

Drumsticks, which refers to the shape of the flower stems and unopened buds, is a name often used for Isopogon anemonifolius but it can also be applied to the genus as a whole. It is an Australian genus of 34 species of small to medium sized shrubs, most of which grow from 1-2m high and about as wide. They have a preference for poor but well-drained soil and will quickly collapse if over-watered or overfed. Most species have narrow lanceolate leaves about 75mm long and some, such as the common Isopogon anemonifolius, have finely cut foliage reminiscent of Marguerite daisy or Anemone leaves.

The flower heads, which open in spring and early summer, are composed of a central cone from which radiate numerous styles. Some species have short stiff styles but in others they are long and filamentous. The flower colours are mainly white, yellow or pink. The two most widely grown species, Isopogon anemonifolius and Isopogon anethifolius are hardy to about -5?C, but many species, such as Isopogon cuneatus and the temptingly beautiful pink and yellow-flowered Isopogon latifolius, are damaged at temperatures below -2?C. Isopogon species are usually raised from seed.

Knightia

The Rewa Rewa or New Zealand Honeysuckle (Knightia excelsa) is the best known of the two?New Zealand?proteaceous species. In the wild it can grow to be a tall narrow tree up to 25m high and it is one of the few proteaceous plants to have been harvested for its timber, which is very attractively marked. In gardens it is more restrained and seldom exceeds 8m ? 3.5m. Rewa rewa has semi-glossy, deep green to bronze-green, narrow, lanceolate to oblong leaves that are very tough and leathery. In summer it produces tubular honeysuckle-like flowers that develop from buds covered in a reddish brown tomentum. As the flowers open the tomentum covered sepals and the petals curl back to form a congested mass in the centre of the flower head. The flowers, which can smell unpleasant, are followed by conspicuous brown, velvety seed pods. Rewa Rewa is easily grown in moist well-drained soil in sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -5?C or slightly lower once established. It may be grown in any coastal area if protected when young. New Zealand honeysuckle is usually raised from seed and garden centres often stock ready-grown plants.

Leucadendron

Species of this genus are the most widely grown of the South African Proteaceae and many are valued for the long-lasting qualities of their flower bracts once cut. Most are medium-sized shrubs around 1-2.5m high. However, one of the best known species, the silver tree (Leucadendron argenteum), can grow to 10m high and the less widely grown Leucadendron eucalyptifolium may reach 5m.

Many species and cultivars are grown, but probably the most widely planted is ‘Safari Sunset’. It is a hybrid between Leucadendron laureolum and Leucadendron salignum and is fairly typical of the genus. It has narrow, lanceolate leaves that are up to 100mm long. Some species, such as L. argenteum, have tomentose foliage but ‘Safari Sunset’ does not. The upward-facing foliage densely covers the narrow, upright branches and develops deep red tints at the flowering tips. Deep red leaf bracts enclose the flower cones. As the insignificant flowers near maturity, the bracts become intensely coloured. ‘Safari Sunset’ has red bracts but others develop cream, yellow, pink or orange tones. ‘Wilson’s Wonder’ (yellow and orange-red), ‘Maui Sunset’ (cream, yellow and red) and ‘Rewa Gold’ (yellow) are among the most spectacular. Leucadendrons generally develop their best colours from mid to late winter but ‘Jester’ a pink, cream and green variegated sport of ‘Safari Sunset’ is brightly coloured throughout the year.

The species and hybrids vary considerably in hardiness but most will tolerate frosts of at least -3?C provided they have good drainage and the humidity is not excessive. ‘Safari Sunset’ is hardy to about -8?C and most of the numerous Leucadendron salignum and Leucadendron laureolum hybrids are nearly as hardy. In the North Island leucadendrons generally thrive in all but the coldest central areas and they can be grown with varying degrees of success in all coastal areas of the South Island.

Leucadendrons can be tricky to propagate. Reasonably firm cuttings taken in early autumn are usually the easiest to strike but gardeners without specialised propagating facilities may experience problems and although seed germinates well, it is inclined to damp off. Garden centres often stock a good range of plants.

Leucospermum

A South African genus of about 50 species, most of which are medium to large shrubs that grow to about 1.5-3m high. Some, such as Leucospermum reflexum, have strongly upright growth habits but most, including the commonly cultivated species, Leucospermum cordifolium, are dense and bushy. Both of these species have tomentose greyish-green leaves that are usually broadly oval shaped, often with small red-tipped lobes. The leaves of Leucospermum reflexum are narrower and greyer than those of Leucospermum cordifolium. Leucospermum reflexum can grow to 3m ? 3m but Leucospermum cordifolium is usually around 1.5m ? 1.5m.

The flowers are variously described as Catherine wheels, pincushions and sky rockets, all of which refer to the numerous radiating styles. These are often incurved, creating a cupped effect. The flower heads of Leucospermum cordifolium are quite globular while those of Leucospermum reflexum have drooping styles at the base of the flower. The flowers usually appear in late spring and continue for about two months. They are attractive when fresh but often become unsightly once they die off.

Most garden leucospermums are cultivars of Leucospermum cordifolium and are hardy to occasional frosts of about -5?C, but they resent wet or humid winter conditions, which can often lead to tip die back. Good drainage is also very important. Cuttings taken in early autumn are the most likely to strike but without proper equipment they may prove difficult and seed often germinates well only to be killed by fungal diseases. Gritty well-drained soil, regular fungicide use and just enough water to keep the seedlings standing up are the keys to success. The orange-flowered ‘Harry Chittick’ is the plant most commonly stocked by nurseries and it is one that performs very well.

Mimetes

This South African genus includes 11 species, only one of which is widely grown. Mimetes cucullatus has 40mm long oblong leaves with small lobes at the tips, that densely cover the branches like upward facing scales. The small white flowers are enclosed within leaf bracts that change colour to a bright red as the flower buds mature. Mimetes may flower throughout the year but is usually at its best in late spring when the new growth appears, as this is also red. Mimetes cucullatus grows to about 1.5m ? 1.5m and is hardy to around -3?C. It prefers moist, well-drained soil and is not very drought tolerant. This species is usually raised from seed.

Paranomus

The most common species of this 18-species genus, Paranomus reflexus, is an undemanding 1.5m ? 1.8m bush with bright yellow bottle-brush-like flower heads in winter and spring. The foliage is anemone-like and very finely cut; the flower stems have small diamond shaped leaves just below the flower heads. It is easily grown in any well-drained soil in full sun. Although the plant is hardy to about -5?C, the flowers are damaged by frosts over -2?C. It is usually raised from seed.

Persoonia

An Australian genus of around 75 species of shrubs, mostly under 2 m tall and some quite small. Known as geebungs, by far the best-known species is the Pine-leaf Geebung (Persoonia pinifolia), an eastern Australian native that is one of the larger species, capable of reaching 3 m tall. It has a weeping habit, fine needle-like leaves and small yellow flowers. Most geebungs will tolerate about 2 to 5?C of frost.

Protea

Protea is a genus of about 80 species that is confined to southern Africa and concentrated around the Cape of Good Hope. The species range in size from less than 50cm high to over 4m. Most commonly grown proteas are small to medium sized shrubs in the 1-2.5m high range.

The best known species is Protea neriifolia. It has narrow leaves up to 150mm long that are covered with a fine tomentum when young. In autumn, winter and spring, upright, 125mm long ? 75mm wide goblet-shaped flowers are carried at the tips of the branches. They are composed of a woolly central cone surrounded by overlapping, upward-facing, petal-like, deep reddish-pink bracts tipped with a fringe of black hairs. Many forms with varying colours of bract and tip hairs are grown. Several other species, such as Protea magnifica and Protea laurifolia, have similar flowers.

The central cone, often with many incurving styles, is common to all Protea species but the arrangement of the bracts varies. Many have them arranged in a stellate or star-shaped fashion. The King Protea (Protea cynaroides) is the best known of this type. Its flowers can be up to 300mm in diameter. The flowers of the king protea face upwards but others, such as greenish-yellow-flowered Protea sulphurea, have downward facing flowers.

The foliage is also variable. It may be needle-like, as in Protea nana, lanceolate, oblong or rounded. It can be silvery grey, glaucous or bright green depending on the species and it may or may not be tomentose.

Likewise, hardiness varies considerably. Most species will tolerate at least -3?C with good drainage and low humidity but many are considerably tougher. Protea neriifolia will withstand -5?C and Protea grandiceps will often survive -10?C when well established. Proteas do well over most of the North Island and many species can be grown as far south as Christchurch with a little winter protection.

Protea species are often raised from seed, which germinates well, but the seedlings may be difficult to keep alive. Hybrids and cultivars must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer and autumn. Specialist growers stock many species and cultivars while garden centres seldom have anything other than the most common plants.

Serruria

Blushing Bride (Serruria florida) is very popular with florists because its Nigella-like papery white bracts are very delicate and last well as cut flowers. The bracts, which are surrounded with finely cut lacy leaves, are produced freely in winter and spring. Blushing Bride can be difficult to grow, because not only is it frost tender (it tolerates only occasional exposure to -2?C), it must also have full sun and absolutely perfect drainage. It is one of a genus of 44 species from South Africa, of which the only other species commonly grown is Serruria rosea. It is a densely foliaged 70cm ? 90cm bush with small pink bracts and is slightly hardier and definitely easier to grow than Serruria florida. Serruria species should be raised from seed.

Stenocarpus

The Queensland Firewheel Tree (Stenocarpus sinuata) is a large tree (12m ? 8m) that produces a magnificent display of orange to red flowers in summer. It has large, glossy, dark green leaves that are deeply lobed. The flowers are tubular and are carried in flattened clusters that radiate spoke-like from a central hub, hence the name firewheel tree. It is hardy to about -4?C once well established but is very tender when young and does best in moist well-drained soil in full sun. Stenocarpus salignus is a species with long, narrow leaves and cream flowers. It is smaller and hardier than Stenocarpus sinuata. Stenocarpus is usually raised from seed.

Telopea

Natives of Australia, the waratah genus includes just four species. The New South Wales waratah (Telopea speciosissima), which is the one most commonly grown has oblong, finely serrated leaves that are up to 125mm long with small notches or lobes at the tips. It develops into a large shrub or small tree up to 5m ? 5m. The flowers, which are produced in spring and carried at the tips of the branches, are impressively large, bright red, and composed of numerous incurving styles surrounded by red foliage bracts. Several cultivars, such as the semi-dwarf ‘Forest Fire’ (2m ? 2m) are reasonably commonly available. The ‘Victorian Waratah’ (Telopea oreades) is a similar plant with slightly lighter coloured leaves and flowers. Both of these species and the cultivars are hardy to around -8?C.

Waratahs prefer moist well-drained soil in full sun and once established they require little care. But many die during the initial establishment period. This is possibly due to essential mycorrhiza failing to establish. These minute fungi form a symbiotic relationship with the plants’ roots and are vital in the uptake of nutrients. It has been suggested that taking soil from around an established waratah and putting it around new plants may help lessen these establishment difficulties. Waratahs may be raised from seed or semi-ripe cuttings but they are difficult to raise. Some success has been achieved with tissue culture and this is how some of the new cultivars are produced.

Toronia

The sole species in this genus is the lesser known of?the two?New Zealand?proteaceous species. Formerly listed as Persoonia toru, it is now known as Toronia toru. A small bushy tree that can grow to about 9m ? 5m, it is usually far smaller in gardens. The narrow, lanceolate olive green to bronze leaves are about 100mm long but may grow to over 150mm on mature trees in sheltered sites. The buff coloured starry flowers, which appear in late winter and early spring, are carried in racemes and develop from golden brown felted buds. It is easily grown in any moist well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -8?C once established. Toronia toru is a relatively unspectacular plant but its flowers are pleasantly honey-scented and it is interesting because it is one of our more unusual natives. This species may be grown from cuttings, but as they are usually difficult to strike, seed is the preferred method.

I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.

Although plants and herbs have been used for millennia as medicines for physical ailments, it is well known that they also have properties which can heal emotional and mental disturbances and disease. And plants are not the only vital energies that can be utilised; minerals and crystals can also be the basis of remedies, as can intentional thought. These remedies involve a very subtle form of energy healing, and come from the very essence or vibration of the plant or other base -there are no active ingredients as found in herbal products or in allopathic medicine, it contains no chemical ingredient that can be ‘proved’ by science - it is the very life force contained in the substance.

These vibrational essences are usually contained in a liquid, almost always water, with an alcoholic preservative like brandy added. Essences are not the same as the essential oils that are used in aromatherapy - they have neither perfume nor flavour. They contain only the energetic properties of their original mother substance.

In contemporary times, the English physician Dr. Edward Bach has been the best-known essence maker of the modern world. Born in 1886 in Birmingham UK, he completed his university studies in 1912 and became a consultant pathologist, bacteriologist and homeopath. After a health crisis in 1917, when doctors gave him three months to live, he threw himself into his work researching and testing his flower remedies on himself and others. As the months went by, he found himself growing stronger which instilled in him the belief that mental states have a direct and powerful effect on physical health. After studying homeopathy in depth, he abandoned his lucrative Harley Street practice and devoted himself to his ‘new’ system of medicine - the Bach Flower Remedies. Over the next five years he developed the series of 38 remedies and, a year later, he died after concluding this life’s work.

Dr Bach devised a system of seven major emotional groups into which people could be classified. These are:

Fear

Loneliness

Insufficient interest in present circumstances

Over-care for the welfare of others

Over-sensitivity to influences and ideas

Uncertainty

Despondency or despair

38 negative states of mind are categorised into these groups and a plant-based remedy was created to treat each of these emotional states.

It is now believed that Dr Bach probably resurrected the old formulas used as far back as Paracelsus’ times (15th century). We know that Aboriginals have used them for centuries. Flowers in honey have also been found in the ancient tombs of Egypt.

Since Dr Bach however, many others all over the world have produced vibrational remedies with delightful results, and dealing with issues that become more relevant in the modern age. They have been produced not only from plant flowers, but trees, roots, minerals, animals, place and healing energies - the sky appears to be the limit. Even the much maligned Japanese Knotweed has been used to make a remedy for helping promote group awareness and experience! We now know from Dr Masaru Emoto’s ground breaking work that water can hold and preserve the intent or message imprinted into it. This is the vibration contained in these remedies or essences.

Thankfully, there is now a myriad energy healing systems being used all over the world. These include Reiki, Chios, Quantum-Touch, my own Crystalistix Energy Healing and a host of others too many to mention. They all work on the premise that physical ill health is the outer manifestation of inner subtle life-energy imbalance, and utilise life force balancing skills to redress this disruption. When life energy is flowing smoothly and suffusing the whole body with its nourishment, the physical symptoms that trouble us usually melt away and are healed, as there is now no need for them to alert us to issues that must be addressed.* All dis-ease corresponds to an underlying emotional / mental negativity that has been allowed to penetrate the physical body through the “hole” in our protective energy system. A skilled energy healer can use many methods of detecting where such imbalance lies, and will enlist the help of many tools, including vibrational essences.

For the sceptics amongst you - I recommend you try it!

* ‘Healing’ does not necessarily mean ‘cure’. Healing is the process which has the intent of returning you to whole-ness, which is your natural state of being. Healing takes place at a very deep level and may happen somewhere - in mind, body or spirit - often far away from where the physical symptom manifests. At the end of the day, we all heal ourselves - it comes from within, not without. A healer’s job is to enable you to promote your own self healing, as far as nature will allow. There are some conditions that subconsciously are not ready to be healed - for whatever reason.

Occasionally the fear of being whole after a long period of illness can be daunting, and one must be ready to take that step and adjust thinking & emotions accordingly. Those who need to be healed but are not ready, because changing appears to them to be a more difficult task than not changing (for various reasons), are often not prescribed vibrational remedies until they realise that change is inevitable. The same applies to those for whom a (usually chronic) problem has turned into a ‘dear friend’ and who so rely on it to attract attention or caring response from others that, although they may air their tribulation often, they are not really interested in finding a solution.

Most people who are receptive to the idea of vibrational essences really want to improve their lives, and will benefit greatly from them.

Be brave - wellness is always a better option than disease!

Helen Thompson, MICHT, IIHHT is a multi-therapist and healer based in Coventry in the UK. After many years’ experience in healing, she now offers reiki, reflexology, Indian head massage, Crystalistix Energy Healing, meditation tuition, stress management and ongoing workshops & reiki attunements. She invites you to visit her website and forum at http://www.healingholistix.com, and welcomes comments and correspondence from interested parties!

Your wedding flowers usually tie to your wedding theme. When most of us envision wedding flowers we think of more of the traditional choices but there are literally thousands of flower choices that work very well for wedding bouquets, ceremonies, and receptions.

Here are just a few flower variations to get you thinking. We’ve divided them by color to help make it easier to fit them to your theme.

YELLOWS/ORANGES

Dahlia - a late summer and fall bloom known for its wide variety of colors. Very affordable and they work great in centerpieces and bouquets.

Asclepia Beatix - very tiny flowers that throw a lot of punch! A 1″ hybrid flower that works well in low arrangements.

Tulip - there are several tulip variants and plenty of color variety. Very affordable and they work great in centerpieces and bouquets.

Ranuculus - a beautiful spring flower but prone to drooping in hot weather. It looks terrific mixed with other flowers.

Chinese Lantern - is known to have 10-15 flowers on a stock so it is excellent for a focal point in centerpieces.

Sandersonia - these little bell shaped flowers work great in boutonnieres, corsages, and in flower girls baskets.

Poppy - Big, beautiful, and very affordable when purchased in its in season, spring. They are definitely an eye catcher!

Black Eyed Susans - The perfect country flower for a country wedding,

Sunflower - blooms from late summer to fall and are available in a variety of colors and sizes. Very popular planted in pots.

Snapdragon - a very graceful and elegant flower that works well with simple bouquets and centerpieces. Reasonably priced, blooming in late summer.

WHITES

Flannel Flower - produces spiky star shaped blossoms that are long lasting. Perfect for both bouquets and arrangements.

Chamomile - is a common wild flower that blooms late summer. Very refreshing and great for wreaths, centerpieces, and bouquets.

Stephanotis - this year round flower is affordable and perfect for bouquets and boutonnieres.

Narcissus - blooms late winter early spring. Its fragrant blooms are great for centerpieces.

Cosmos - blooms in spring and summer. Not so impressive on its own but very glamorous when mixed with other flowers.

Snowberry - blooms late fall through December. Produces small pale fruit that works well in winter bouquets.

Dogwood - blooms in spring producing large flowers. Very nice in both bouquets and centerpieces.

Iris - many colors and varieties are available. There are iris choices for all four seasons. Very affordable with large blooms making it perfect for large arrangements.

Miniature Calla Lily - works very well in bouquets and centerpieces. There is a warning attached to this flower - it is poisonous to dogs.

BLUES/PURPLES

Veronica - these tiny spiked flowers add grace and elegance to bouquets and centerpieces. They mix well with round flowers.

Clematis - this vine blooms during summer months and is available in many colors and species varieties. It weaves nicely into wreaths,

Celosia - blooms spring through fall producing velvety flowers. Perfect way to add texture to bouquets and centerpieces.

Hyacinth - this fragrant flower works well on its own or in arrangements.

Anemone - blooms September through March producing a variety of bright colors. Perfect for adding some color and cheer to this drabber season.

Frittilaria - these checkered flowers are perfect for small arrangements and bouquets.

Scabiosa - blooms spring through summer producing ruffled flowers. It makes a wonderful addition to bouquets and centerpieces.

Gomphrena - has a thistle type bloom and is very hardy. It won’t wilt so is perfect for bouquets, boutonnieres, and arrangements. Dries nicely too.

Cornflower - adds a nice fresh touch to bouquets and centerpieces.

Allium - these tiny petal flowers will add glamour. They smell like onions so they work best around food areas.

GREENS

Sand Catchfly - looks like miniature hot air balloons. It adds flare and depth to bouquets and centerpieces.

Spider Chrysanthemum - blooms year round so very affordable. Its spidery petal flowers add charm and excitement to bouquets and arrangements.

Benzelia Lanuginosa - Imported from New Zealand so can be a bit pricey. A wonderful exotic addition to all arrangements.

Nigella Pod - available late summer to early fall adding a sculptured accent to centerpieces.

Seeded Eucalyptus - very versatile adding texture to a centerpiece. It can easily be sprayed with metallic spray paint and it dries nicely.

Lady’s Slipper - very expensive but ever so exotic. Perfect for a corsage or bouquet. To pricey for table arrangements.

Solomon’s Seal - the bell shaped flowers work well in casual bouquet and centerpieces. It works well with lilies.

Fern - work well for fillers on bouquets and centerpieces. It presses nicely so also can be used for accenting menus or cards.

PINKS/REDS

Rose Hip - the post blossom fruit of the rose makes great filler for bouquets as well as all arrangements.

Vallota - bloom summer through fall producing 2″ flowers shaped like a lily. Their smaller size makes them fit much better into arrangements.

Fringed Gerbera Daisy - these miniature flowers are whimsical and work well in bouquets. They also have a nice touch when floated in a bowl or brandy glass.

Tree Peony - blooms late fall to early winter in New Zealand. Because they are imported they are pricey. However, they certainly stand out and add color to a cooler season wedding.

Astrantia - this is an eye catching bloom that mixes well but stands out.

Cymbidium Orchid - perfect for corsages but also works well in large displays. Nicely scented it works well on table tops or floated in a bowl or glass. Floated in a martini glass adds a real nice touch!

Carousel Illusion Rose - this very large hybrid flower works well in bouquets and arrangements.

Antique Rose - this beautiful rose is very hard to come by and thus extremely pricey. However if you are looking for something romantic and rare this flower is a must have. Add to your bouquet for your own personal joy!

Curcuma - a tropical flower that blooms mid summer. Adds character to a bouquet or arrangement.

Flower choices are endless. I’ve only covered just a handful of what’s available. If your wedding is spring through fall learn what flowers are native to your area.

You may be pleasantly surprised at what is available and of course the pricing will be much better on local flowers. If you’re looking for those more exotic flowers then set a budget and start checking early.

This will give you an idea of what is available in your budget range. Remember exotic and tropical flower prices can change dramatically in one season depending on availability.

You may be able to get a florist to lock into pricing or at least set a guarantee of the maximum price for your future wedding date. Often local florists grow some of the tropicals in their greenhouses to that may also help keep the pricing a little more affordable.

So choose your wedding theme, choose your colors, and then you can start to decide what flowers are right for your wedding. Best Wishes!

Sher from Estate Jewelry International has been serving customers for over 20 years, providing fashion, jewelry, and wedding help. So stop by and visit us at http://www.estatejewelryinternational.com/
We’ll help you make your fashion statement! Remember looking good doesn’t have to cost a fortune!

Scents from the rose garden filling the air as you walk by… it’s a lovely summer scent that you can enjoy every year. Many gardeners know that the rose is referred to as the queen of all flowers, and you can see the history in the rose by traveling back in time to Europe. The rose is a plant whose scent predominates the historical gardens all over the world. Historical gardens in Europe include the use of Roses, Peonies, Honeysuckle, and a few other strongly scented plants. The rose creates the feeling of royalty, color, and elegance all in the same instant

The rose bush is a perennial that will fill your garden space without much added work.

In planning a rose garden, you might have the option to plant roses that are bare root. What are bare root roses? Bare root roses are plants that you will dig up from your family or friend’s house and bring back to your own garden. The plant that you dig up without bringing the soil that the plant lived in to your garden is a bare root plant. Here, we are going to discuss more about bare root roses, and how to plant them for your rose garden success.

Bringing the bare root plant back from the store, your friends or from your supplier, you should soak your bare root plants in a bucket of water overnight before planting. In planning your rose garden, you can dig your hole for your new plant, loosing the soil where you will place your new rose bush. Using the soil that you loosen in the hole, pile or mound it in the middle of the hole to support the plant during and after planting.

Placing your bare root plant in the hole, center it on the mound of dirt and back fill around the plant. Do not pack in the soil, but loosely back fill the soil around the plant to an inch above where planted in the soil before. You can tell how far the plant was in the soil earlier by the green on the stalk of the plant. Water the rose bush once again with ample amounts of water.

After watering your rose bush well, cover the soil with mulch to hold moisture. The mulch around the rose should not actually touch the thick stalk of the plant, but instead be a half-inch to an inch from the stalk. Watering your rose bush at least once a week, for the first month after planting, will bring the first breath of success in your new rose garden.

Rose Garden Tips…

The rose garden ultimately is a get away for you and your thoughts any time of the day. You can plan and create a rose garden of your own that will take away the stress of your day with its beauty. The rose garden that you love and admire so much can be yours if you follow a few easy steps in planning and in raising your roses.

If you have never raised roses before, we have a few great tips and ideas lined up for your reference. One important thing to remember is that roses do love the sunshine. In the garden that is full sun areas only, you will have great success in growing roses. If you have a partially shaded area where you want to grow new rose bushes, you may want to consider moving your plants to where your roses will receive at least six hours of sun a day or more.

When first planting or transplanting a rose bush, water will be an important factor. You will need to water your roses at least once a week as your rose establishes itself. The soil that you plant your rose in does need to drain well, this is important. The rose bush will not thrive in the area moist all of the time. Refraining from planting your rose in an area that fills with puddles will aid in your successful rose gardening.

As your roses grow and change every year, you will need to pick off the dead head flowers. Picking off the flowers that are dead will bring new life to your bush. If you find black spots on the leaves of your rose bush, this will keep your plant from suffering and from any disease from spreading over the entire plant. Treating your plants at the first sign of Japanese beetles is going to save their luscious green leaves from these tiny creatures.

In the spring of the year, you will need to prune your rose bush. The blackened portions of your rose bush need pruned away to promote additional new growth over the entire plant. While pruning your plant in the spring season, pull weed starts so that your plant is not in competition for water or soil nutrients over the growing seasons.

As you plan your rose garden and begin placement, planting roses of the same color next to each other will enhance the over all look of the rose garden. Using too many flowers in one area though, can make the entire rose garden look more jumbled than a wave of color.

One last thing for you to think about when creating and planning a rose garden is to remember to test your soil. Soil testers are widely available and relatively inexpensive. When testing your soil, your pH level is going to be most important for success with roses. A pH level of 5.5 to 6.6 is the ultimate situation for raising a rose garden of your own.

Gordon Goh is author of the free, informative website Simply Flower Garden offering quality useful tips for flower garden lovers.

The Calendula flower is a very bright orange flower. From the family of the Marigold plant and can grow in pots, window boxes or outside in the garden. Calendulas love the sun and are very easy to care for. Plant preferably around April, you can harvest the flowers from early summer to late fall depending of your location. Originally grown in Egypt on the border of the Nile, it was already used before Cleopatra’s time for its healing properties. Healers from the Meditterranee and the Middle East utilize the whole flower for different medicines. (Skin, digestive system, wounds, vascular problems just to name a few.)

The easiest way to take advantage of all the properties of this wonderful plant is to harvest the whole flower and separate the petals before placing them in a flat basket. Actually you might use any natural container as long as the petals can breathe. Cover with a clean cloth and let dry for a few days in a warm dark place. As any medicine herbs they need to dry in the dark to keep their healing properties. Store in a glass dark jar preferably or away from the light in a cool place. Then just use the petals, as you need them.

1 Sun damaged Skin

Infuse the Calendula petals with carrier oil at very low heat for about 8 hours in double boiler so you do not burn the oil. Strain the petals in cheesecloth and keep aside. Add the infused carrier oil with equal amount of Carrot seed oil and Apricot Kernel oil. Most recommended carrier oils are: jojoba oil, grape seed oil, wheat germ oil, and hemp oil.

2 Soothing and Relaxing Bath

Take the cheese clothes with the Calendula petals from the above recipe and put them in your warm bath. It will soothe and heal your skin. It is particularly efficient for dry and itchy skin. For a more relaxing moment, add a few Lavender essential oil drops and light a scented candle. The bright orange color of the flower will also bring some sun to your soul during the long winter blues.

3 Moisturizer for Dry Skin

Use the carrier oil infused with the Calendula petals as a daily moisturizer for your body. Keep in a cold place or even in the fridge.
Another way to create a nice moisturizer for the body is to use olive oil. Add the petals to an organic cold pressed olive oil, in a dark glass jar and let it sit for 12 to 15 days. You will know it is ready because of the dark orange color. Use a cheesecloth to drain the oil before using it. With olive oil it is better to add a little bit of Vitamin E before storing to naturally preserve the moisturizer. Be aware that if you keep it in the fridge, the olive oil will solidify.

You actually can use the same process with any kind of oil you would like: Avocado oil, coconut oil, almond oil, pumpkin seed oil, rosehip oil and the oils listed above are the most common carrier oil.
Again you can keep the cheese clothe with the Calendula petals and use it in your bath.

If you do not have use for it right away, place the cheese clothe in a close container in the fridge. It will keep for at least 2 to 3 weeks.

4 Healing Wounds

The medicinal properties of Calendula are very complex and well research. I just want to pass on a few of Grandma recipes. The following are an alternative to commercial antiseptics and ointments. I always have a little jar of Calendula oil at my house in my first aid kit. I have found that applying a little bit of Calendula Oil on scratches, cold sores, light cuts, bruises and burns have worked very well for me, my dog and the kids.

5 Calendula Tincture

1 cup of petals mixed with vodka and distilled water: 2 part vodka, 1 part water until the petals are covered. Seal it off with saran wrap. Let it sit in a warm dark place for 6 to 8 weeks. Strain the petals and put the tincture in a dark glass jar.
Take 3 or 4 drops in a 1 oz glass of water for digestive problems and gastro intestinal upsets.

6 Tea
Infuse the dry leaves with boiling water to make a wonderful natural tea. Very good for sluggish liver and upset stomach.You can mix with nettle leaves or fresh mint leaves for a different taste and more healing properties.

7 In Cooking a Great Alternative to Saffron

Rich in vitamin C, it is a great add on to salads, soups, and pasta or rice dishes. Nice colorful finishing touch for your dish, the petals are pleasing to the eye and the palate as well as healing for the digestive system. When you cook your rice or your sauces with a few petals, they will naturally turn to yellow or orange.

It is easy to plant Calendula seeds. They prefer a light well drained soil with full exposure to the sun. If you were going to use the flowers and the petals for consumption, I would recommend buying organic seeds. This plant reseeds easily so all you have to do is let a few flowers go to seeds for your next year harvest. It is important to collect your Calendula flowers when the flower is wide open and healthy. This is when all of the healing properties are their peak. Plant around April and you can harvest until late in the fall. If you do not have a garden, planting the seeds in window boxes will work very well to.

Catherine Potin invites you to http://www.best-of-natural-skin-care.com an information site about natural and organic skin care. How to choose and purchase natural and organic skin care and personal products.
Natural and organic anti aging products and other resources to take care of your skin, body and hair naturally.

For some strange reasons, I like designing flower tattoos more than others. Flower tattoos are mostly favored by women, they are like clothes accessories except that you can wear your tattoo to bed. It’s like having a piece of art with you all the time. I find women with tattoos more appealing, sexier, more feminine and more powerful.

The image of a tattoo can be so captivating that it stirs up all our senses. You can have a Rose tattoo with a barbed wire around it and still look very good. It’s Ying and Yang, loving and sweet but authoritative and intimidating. But if you are intending to ink a flower tattoo on your body, it’s best to find out the meaning of the flower and what you want it to represent. You can then combine different images to give contrasting impressions of your tattoos.

I have compiled a list of meaning of flowers as a guide before you tattoo them on your body. I cannot vouch how official these meanings are, but my research has shown them to be fairly consistent. flower tattoos are permanent, so look around before deciding on one.

BABY’S BREATH: Innocence.

BALSAM: Ardent love.
BELLS OF IRELAND: Good luck.
BOUVARDIA: Enthusiasm.
CACTUS: Endurance.
CALLA LILY: Magnificent beauty.

CAMELLIA: Gratitude.
CAMELLIA, PINK: Longing for you.
CAMELLIA, RED: You’re a flame in my heart.

CAMELLIA, WHITE: You’re adorable.
CARNATION: Fascination, distinction, divine love, woman
CARNATION, PINK: A woman’s love, I’ll never forget you, mother’s love.
CARNATION, RED: Alas for my poor heart, admiration, my heart aches for you, fascination.
CARNATION, WHITE: Innocence, faithfulness, sweet and lovely, pure love, ardent love, good luck.
CHRYSANTHEMUM: Cheerfulness, optimism, rest, truth.
CHRYSANTHEMUM, RED: I love.
CHRYSANTHEMUM, WHITE: Truth, loyal love.
CHRYSANTHEMUM, YELLOW: Slighted love.
DAFFODIL: Regard, rebirth, new beginnings, unrequited love, you’re the only one, chivalry.
DAFFODIL, SEVERAL: Joy, happiness.
DAISY: Innocence, loyal love, I’ll never tell, purity.
DANDELION: Faithfulness, happiness, love’s oracle.
DAY LILY: Coquetry, Chinese emblem for mother.
EREMURUS: Endurance.
EUPHORBIA: Persistence.
FORGET-ME-NOT: True love, hope, remembrance, memories.

FREESIA: Innocence, thoughtfulness.
GARDENIA: You’re lovely, secret love, joy, sweet love, good luck.
GLADIOLUS: Strength of character, remembrance, infatuation, splendid beauty, give me a break.
GLOXINA: Love at first sight.
HEATHER, LAVENDER: Admiration, solitude, beauty.
HEATHER, WHITE: Protection, wishes will come true.
HIBISCUS: Delicate beauty.
HOLLY: Foresight, defense, domestic happiness, enchantment.

HOLLYHOCK: Ambition, fruitfulness.
HONEYSUCKLE: Bonds of love.
HUCKLEBERRY: Simple pleasure.
HYACINTH: Sport, play, games, rashness, dedicated to Apollo.
HYACINTH, BLUE: Constancy.
HYACINTH, RED OR PINK: Play.
IRIS: Wisdom, Fleur-de-lis, emblem of France, your friendship means so much to me, faith, hope, valor, my compliments.
IRIS, WHITE: Purity.
JASMINE, WHITE or INDIAN: Amiability , I attach myself to you, sensuality, attachment.
JASMINE, SPANISH: Sensuality.
JASMINE, YELLOW: Grace, elegance.
JONQUIL: Sympathy , love me, affection returned, desire.
LADY SLIPPER: Capricious beauty.
LARKSPUR, PURPLE: First love.
LAVENDER: Devotion.
LEATHERLEAF FERN: Fascination.
LILAC: Youthful, humility, confidence.
LILY: Majesty, wealth, pride, innocence, purity.
LILY, WHITE: Purity, modesty, virginity, majesty, it’s heavenly to be with you. LILY,
MAGNOLIA: Dignity, love of nature, nobility.
MIMOSA: Sensitivity.
MINT: Virtue.
MISTLETOE: Kiss me, affection, to surmount difficulties, sacred plant of India.
MORNING GLORY: Loves you.

MOSS: Maternal love, charity.
NARCISSUS: Egotism, conceit, self love, self admiration, formality, stay as sweet as you are
NASTURTIUM: Conquest, victory in battle.
OAK LEAVES: Bravery.
OLIVE BRANCH: Peace.
ORANGE BLOSSUM: Purity, innocence, eternal love, marriage and fruitfulness, fertility.
ORCHID: Rare beauty, love, refinement, beautiful lady, Chinese symbol for many children, mature charm, beauty, long life.
PALM LEAVES: Victory, success.

PEPPERMINT: Cordiality.
PERIWINKLE: Friendship.
POPPY: Eternal sleep, oblivion, imagination.

POPPY, RED: Pleasure, consolation.
POPPY, YELLOW: Wealth, success.

PRIMROSE: I can’t live without you.
PRIMROSE, EVENING: Happy love.
QUEEN ANNE’S LACE: Haven.
RANUNCULUS: You are radiant with charm, radiant charm.

ROSE: Love, passion, perfection. The rose was named for the Latin word rosa which means red. It has been a symbol of love since ancient times.

ROSE, BURGUNDY: Beauty within.
ROSE, CORAL: Desire.
ROSE, DARK CRIMSON: Mourning.
ROSE, HIBISCUS: Delicate beauty.
ROSE, LAVENDER: Love at first sight, enchantment.
ROSE, LEAF: You may hope.
ROSE, MOSS: Confessions of love.
ROSE, ORANGE: Fascination, display feeling of enthusiasm.
ROSE, PEACH: Desire, gratitude, apprecation, admiration, sympathy, modesty.

ROSE, PINK: Happiness, appreciation, admiration, friendship, sympathy.
ROSE, DARK PINK: Thankfulness.
ROSE, LIGHT PINK: Grace, gladness, joy, perfect happiness, please believe me, gratitude, admiration, gentility.
ROSE, RED: Love, passion, respect, courage, I love you, beauty, pure and lovely, prosperity.
ROSE, DEEP RED: Un-selfconscious beauty.
ROSE, SINGLE, FULL BLOOM: I love you, I still love you, new love.
ROSE, BUD, SMALL: Pure and lovely, beauty and youth, a heart innocent of love.
ROSE, THORNLESS: Love at first sight.
ROSE, WHITE: Innocence, purity, secrecy, I am worthy of you, silence, friendship, truth, virtue, girlhood, humility spiritual love, but of the soul, reverence, charm, happy love.
ROSE, WHITE, DRIED: Death is preferable to loss of virtue.
ROSE, YELLOW: Joy, friendship, true love, decrease of love, jealousy, try to care, freedom, slighted love, shows “I care”, joy, gladness.
ROSES, BOUQUET, MATURE: Gratitude.
ROSES, RED & WHITE TOGETHER: Unity, flower emblem of England.

ROSES, YELLOW & RED TOGETHER: Happiness, congratulations.

ROSES, YELLOW & ORANGE TOGETHER: Passionate thoughts.
ROSEMARY: Remembrance, purity, rebirth.
SAGE: Virtue.
SALAL: Zest.
SCABIOUS: Unfortunate love.
SMILAX: Loveliness.
SNAPDRAGON: Deception, gracious lady, presumption.
SPEARMINT: Warm sentiment.
SPIDER FLOWER: Elope with me.
STAR OF BETHLEHEM: Purity.
STATICE: Sympathy, remembrance, success.
STEPHANOTIS: Happiness in marriage, desire to travel.
STOCK: Lasting beauty, bonds of affection, promptness, you’ll always be beautiful to me.
SUNFLOWER: Follows the sun as it grows, adoration, haughtiness.

SWEET WILLIAM: Gallantry, smile, finesse.
THYME: Activity.
TUBEROSE: Dangerous pleasure.
TULIP: Perfect lover, frame, flower emblem of Holland.
TULIP, RED: Believe me, declaration of love, fame.
TULIP, VARIEGATED: Beautiful eyes.
TULIP, YELLOW: Hopeless love, there’s sunshine in your smile.

VIOLET: Modesty, faithfulness, innocence, understated beauty.
VIOLET, BLUE: Watchfulness, faithfulness, I’ll always be true.

VIOLET, PURPLE: Thoughts of you, blue love.
VIOLET, WHITE: Let’s take a chance, youthful innocence.
VIOLET, YELLOW: Love of country.
WATER LILY: Purity of heart.
WEEPING WILLOW: Mourning.
WHEAT: Friendliness.
YARROW: Healing, sorrow.
ZINNIA: Thoughts of absent friends, in memory of an absent friend.

ZINNIA, SCARLET: Constancy.
ZINNIA, WHITE: Goodness.
ZINNIA, YELLOW: Daily remembrance.

You can download all my free flower tattoos designs at http://www.miluping.com/flower_tattoos

The selection process of your wedding flowers will usually begin with a discussion of the Bride’s bouquet. You will have a choice of several basic styles. These are cascade, crescent, contemporary, nosegay, hand tied bouquet and arm or presentation style. You can better prepare for your first meeting with your florist if you bring the following;

A list of those in your wedding party that will need flowers.

A list of what flowers you will want at the ceremony.

A list of what flowers will be needed at the reception, including table count, size and shape.

Color/fabric swatches and pictures of your dress and bridesmaids dresses, if you have them.

Feel free to also bring pictures of flowers that you like.

Your florist will also have pictures of flowers, bouquets and arrangements to help determine exactly what will create the wedding of your dreams. If your wedding has a “theme”, let your florist know before the consultation, as they can prepare suggestions to fit the style of your wedding. After style, the next thing to consider is if there are any specific flowers you want.

Keep in mind that some flowers are not in season year round. The flowers that will give the best presentation are those in their season prime. Make sure you let your florist know if your ceremony and/or reception will be held outdoors. Certain flowers do not hold up in hot/humid conditions. Consider color, shape, and fragrance when selecting your bouquet flowers. A note of advice on color choice, avoid all white flowers, they do not photograph well.

It is important that you are upfront with your florist about your budget. Not just for your bouquet but for all of your flowers. Be realistic. You may want a $200 bridal bouquet, but if you only have $400 for a flower budget, you will not have enough left for 3 bridesmaids bouquets, 2 corsages, 3 boutonnieres and 15 centerpieces for your reception. Choose similar flowers to be used throughout your wedding. Using 20 different kinds of flowers will quickly increase the cost. Your florist can balance your needs with your budget. They can offer alternatives. Exotic flowers such as Orchids are very pretty, but they are more expensive. Consider more affordable flowers if you are on a budget. Don’t plan your wedding near big flower holidays, such as Valentine’s Day, Easter and Mother’s Day. If you do, expect to pay more for your flowers. Not because the florist’s want to charge you more, but due to the fact that the wholesalers charge more during these busy holidays based on growing and demand.

Once you have chosen your Bouquet you have selected the “center” of your wedding flowers. The other pieces can be used to incorporate your bouquet flowers throughout your entire wedding. The following is an example list of the flowers you may need for your “Special Day”…

Bride’s Bouquet
Toss Bouquet for Bride to Throw
Maid of Honor Bouquet
Bridesmaids Bouquets
Grooms Boutonniere
Boutonnieres for Best Man and other male attendants in the wedding
Boutonnieres for Father of Bride and Groom
Corsages for Mothers/Grandmothers and/or Guests of Honor
Boutonniere for Ring Bearer
Flower Basket (with petals?) or small bouquet for flower girl*
Ceremony Arrangements (can serve double duty at your reception perhaps at your buffet)
Vase at Guest Book Table
Centerpieces for Reception Tables (make sure you get an accurate count)
Centerpiece for Head Table (usually larger than other centerpieces)
Flowers or Petals for Cake Table (Flowers for Cake if necessary)

*If you are considering petals for the aisle at your ceremony, make sure your accomodations allow them. Also remember that roses with color petals will stain the carpet if stepped on. White petals are recommended for carpeted areas.

A very important detail is to make sure your florist knows exactly when and where your flowers will need to be delivered. They will also need to know ahead of time if you will need them to set up the flowers. If you have someone else handling set up, make sure your florist knows who they are and how to reach them. You will probably want your flowers to arrive at least an hour before you need them. Make sure you have somewhere safe and cool to keep them until you use them. Always leave your florist a phone number of someone you trust (preferrably with a cel phone) that can handle any last minute decisions regarding your flowers.

Finally, when it comes to your wedding flowers, don’t skimp! I have heard many sad stories about bride’s trying “do-it-yourself” flowers or having a friend design them, only to end up with bouquets falling apart minutes before the wedding! Don’t risk it! Experienced florists process and design your wedding flowers for optimum presentation and performance. Your flowers are one of the most important elements of your wedding! You want them to be beautiful. They compliment you, your wedding party, your wedding photos and provide an elegant atmosphere for you and your guests on your special day!

Congratulations!

Tenley McDonald- Former Florist- Now Co-Owner of http://www.flowerpowernetwork.com (Online Directory of Real Local Florists) Ms. McDonald has over 14 years experience in ~Consumer Relations/Marketing ~Customer Service Management ~Floral Design. Please email the Author directly for reprint permission of this article.

Most average gardeners quietly and sadly resign themselves to a long winter empty of the lovely flowers that, only a few weeks before, had graced their lives with color and fragrance. Yes, it’s sad to leave the outdoor garden behind.

Houseplants relieve some of the sadness, but somehow it’s just not the same. I mean, African violets and Christmas Cactus are nice, but I long for my lupines and roses, delphiniums and pansies and all the other wonderfully cheerful little flower-faces that once looked back from the border. Surely there must be a way to bring my favorites in for the winter! The real trick, as you’ll soon see, is to plan ahead.

Enter my very best friend of over 45 years, Linda. . .to my rescue (why am I not surprised?!). “Not to fear,” says she. “I’ll bring in some of summer’s delights and dry them so they can be our company this winter!”
“What a marvelous idea!” says I. “But doesn’t it take some special trick or magic? Don’t we have to take a class or something?” “Well, no” says she. “Just you watch. You’ll see!”

So, for the price of a trifling few moments of summer effort (which this remarkable person calls fun), our home is frequently host to a quantity of most attractive little dry flower arrangements in baskets and vases, adding joy to joy.

You see, there really wasn’t any magic involved. All it took was a desire, some good old New England resolve, a few wire coat hangers and some twist ‘n ties like the ones that come with most household trash bags. Combine those factors and inexpensive materials with a space in your attic or closetand selections from the list of “best-bets-to-begin-with” that I’ll include belowand you have arrived at the prestigious stage of “expert.”

What’s that you say? “Fine time to tell us about this now that the whole world is covered with snow!” “Nay,” say I! This is the perfect time. Winter is for planning. If I’d have told you about this in May or June, you’d have been so busy it would never have managed to be squeezed in. Isn’t this the time for resolutions? So make one that says: “This is the last winter I’ll spend with no summertime flowers in the house!”

The instructions are pure simplicity. On a dry, sunny day, cut your fresh flowers, leaving fairly long stems. Gather them into small bunches of not more than 6 or 7 stems and wrap the ends tightly with a twist ‘n tie. Attach several of these small bunches to a wire clothes hanger so they dangle down, and suspend it in an attic or closet to dry. The drying process takes from ten days to three or four weeks. Most will retain their color, but a few will turn a pale tan. Not to worry, even softer, faded-out colors fit into dried flower arrangements nicely.

The rest is up to you and your arranging imagination and creativity. Pictures in a book are very helpful. Remember that dried flowers are fragile and some delicate parts are bound to shatter away if handled roughly.

Dried arrangements add so much to a home! They brighten a room and certainly brighten spirits. The icing on a cake: they make thoughtful and much appreciated gifts-especially to shut-ins.

That’s it for air-drying. Here’s the list of “best bets” I promised you:
Artemisia; Astilbe; Baby’s Breath; Beebalm; Cattails; Celosia; Chive seed heads; Coneflower seed heads; Globe Amaranth; Globe Thistle; Goldenrod; Gomphrena; Heather; Helichrysom; Hydrangea (especially “Pee-Gee”); Lavender; Lunaria (seed structures, not the flowers); Ornamental Grasses; Pearly Everlastings; Pussywillows; Salvia; Sea Lavender; Statice; Veronica; Yarrow.

The list could go on but I think you get the picture. Just keep your eyes open and don’t be bashful.
Now let’s tackle a trickier process: drying some of the more delicate and intricate blossoms in sand. Large flowers like roses, carnations, daisies, delphiniums and many others not only lose their shape, but most fade to brown if simply hung out to dry.

Sand Drying. By far the least complicated method is air-drying, but that limits us to a relatively short list of possibilities. Carefully surrounding more delicate and intricate flowers with sand (or silica gel) extends the list considerably and opens the door to much more elaborate and lovely floral displays that can last for months.

First, a word or two of caution. Most sand-dried flowers are extremely fragile, shattering at the slightest misadventure. A playful kitten or curious child will quickly turn a beautiful flower into a handful of fragments resembling breakfast flakes. The entire process briefly described below must be undertaken slowly, very deliberately and with the lightest touch. The final requirement is patience. A flower removed from its sandy bed too soon - before it is completely desiccated - will quickly shrivel to ruin…so don’t be too anxious.

Sand. Probably the most difficult first step is finding just the right sand. If you’re willing to spend a little extra, most larger craft stores either have in stock or can order sand best suited to the purpose, usually in five-pound tins. You’ll need about fifteen or twenty pounds to get started. Since sand specifically manufactured for the purpose is completely reusable, it should last a while, especially if it’s kept reasonably clean. Silica gel may be too tricky (and too expensive) for the beginner, experimenter or for anyone on a limited budget. It dries flowers very quickly but must be timed almost to the exact, “just right” moment.

Silica sand (or “glass sand”), on the other hand, is perfect, much more pleasant to handle and is considerably less expensive. It is almost pure white and looks like fine granulated sugar. Beach sand, masonry or “sharp” builder’s sand and road sand is irregular and dirty, and may leave an unpleasant and difficult-to-remove residue on your dried specimens. Take the time to find just the right kind.

Containers. Sturdy shoe boxes are just about perfect for drying flowers. Round cardboard oatmeal containers work well, too, but can be a little awkward. Both have close-fitting lids and are stable, not being easily upset. Plastic bags and glass jars are not suitable; neither are grocery or lunch bags.
Where? Just the other day someone said to me “Sure, dry all kinds of flowers! But where can I get flowers this time of year?” A reasonable question, and one that’s easy to answer. Here’s where you’ll find plenty of material

* From a thoughtful spouse or friend who sends or brings you a nice bouquet or potted flowering plant from a local florist or supermarket.

* Weddings are happening all around us. In my earlier days as a wedding photographer I attended hundreds of weddings and many had attractive little fresh arrangements at each reception table.

* There are almost as many funerals as there are weddings (hmmmm). While I don’t recommend you go to a funeral just for the flowers, very often those large arrangements, loaded with a wide variety of suitable blossoms and greenery, end up in the rubbish after the service. Most funeral homes would be happy to see them “recycled.”

* The local florist or flower shop. One or two single daisies or mums shouldn’t cost too much. They might even let you have a few of their “rejects.” Tiny flaws which make a flower unsuitable for a fresh arrangement are perfectly acceptable for drying. Ask.

* And of course there’s your own garden-next year.

Okbefore going to Part 2, run down some suitable sand and gather up a few mush or shoe boxes. Also, gather together a paper cup or two, and a small, soft artist’s paintbrush. Finally, if you’re the type who salvages and recycles such things, a block of dried-out “Oasis”spongy, green blocks which florists use in arrangementswill make a handy place to temporarily hold the finished, dried specimens.

Part 2 in this 3-part series will show you how to use your sand for drying, and will introduce the secret that florists have guarded for decades to retain that “live” look in dry-arrangement foliage accents. Later, in Part 3, we’ll get the plans and instructions for an affordabledo-it-yourselfflower press.

View the list of Fred’s other articles at: http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Fred_Davis

Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, lecturer, and long-time nurseryman. He and his wife, Linda, own and operate a popular perennial nursery in Palermo, Maine, and maintain a no-frills gardening information website at: http://www.HillGardens.com/ where you’ll find answers to your gardening questions.

Back in August of 1955, two of the men who brutally murdered young Chicagoan Emmett Till visited a Delta family’s home in nearby Rulesville shortly afterwards.

Now a resident of Drew in Sunflower County less than five miles near the plantation where Till was killed, an old woman, who asks to remain anonymous, remembers that summer night of her seventeenth year when her parents let J.W. Milam and Roy Bryant into their home. Bryant was her mother’s relative by marriage; both were loud and nervous, she recalled.

Recently, Mrs. “Brown” stopped in to visit with a black restaurant owner in Drew, telling him she felt it important to share her story with him and others in the black community.

“It’s finally the right time,” she told the restauranteer.

“My parents didn’t tell me then what was going on at the time. J.W. had a full brother, Bud, and I am very sure he was with them, too. I was in bed but I could hear their voices.”[1]

It was years later that her father confessed to the Drew woman that Milam and Bryant told him what they had done to Emmett Till.

“They knew the law was looking for them. They also said that Carolyn Bryant was with them when they killed Emmett Till. I don’t know when Bud joined them. I think they caught up with him later. He was a nicer person than his brother and I don’t think he would have killed someone - I hope not.”

When she awoke at sunrise that same morning, all three men had left her family home. “I never knew what happened to them after they left our house. I think they knew the law was going to catch up with them. And I think they felt safe, since most of the officers were covering for them, anyway. I don’t know if they turned themselves in, let themselves be found or if they were picked up by the sheriff and charged.

“I still can’t believe how they put our family in such danger; there was so much turmoil after Emmett Till was killed. People in Drew - black and white - were threatening to kill each other’s entire families. Some were threatening to kill as many as ten members of another person’s family as payback.”[2]

Even though her parents hid the killers of Emmett Till and never turned them in, the Drew woman denies their involvement.

“I know that my parents would have never covered for them. The men came to our house and sat there all night. Later my parents told me what was going on. But I would never want anyone to think that our family helped them out.”

Mrs. Brown believes that “most white people in Drew and Ruleville felt the same way.”

“After the trial, the only support Milam and Bryant got came from the Klan because they were members. Most people didn’t want to have anything to do with them; they had killed a 14-year-old child, after all. Maybe they didn’t mean to do it, but they did kill him.”

On August 24, 1955, fourteen-year-old Till whistled at a white woman in a grocery store in Money, Mississippi, a small cotton hamlet in the Delta. Emmett Till, a teen from Chicago, didn’t understand that he had broken the unwritten laws of the Jim Crow South until three days later, when two white men dragged him from his bed in the dead of night, beat him brutally and then shot him in the head.

Although Till’s killers were arrested and charged with murder, they were both acquitted quickly by an all-white, all-male jury. Shortly afterwards, the defendants sold their story, including a detailed account of how they murdered Till, to a journalist.

The murder and the trial horrified the nation and the world and Till’s death was a spark that helped mobilize the civil rights movement. Three months after his body was pulled from the Tallahatchie River, the Montgomery bus boycott began after Rosa Parks refused to sit at the back of a city bus. Parks would later tell the young man’s mother how she was influenced by Till’s murder to take her personal stand.

The federal government’s failure to become involved in the Till case led blacks and whites to realize that if change were to come, they would have to do it themselves. Some historians describe the murder of young Emmett Till as the real spark that ignited broad-based support for the movement.

—–

[1] A story appearing September 3, 1955, in the Jackson Advocate suggested that three white men were, in fact, involved in the kidnapping, marking “the first suggestion that more individuals were involved in the abduction than either Milam or Bryant let on,” according to Christopher Metress, editor of a comprehensive book on the Emmett Till incident.
[
2] Interview by Susan Klopfer on March 4, 2005, with a Sunflower County resident who asked to remain anonymous out of fear of retaliation. “Just a few years ago, our minister and his family were threatened when the minister tried to talk about church integration. They were almost run out of town.” Bud was probably with the group, as she suggested. Dr. TRM Howard’s version of the kidnapping and murder appeared in a small booklet in February 1956, Time Bomb: Mississippi Exposed and the Full Story of Emmett Till. The author was Olive Arnold Adams, the wife of Julius J. Adams, the publisher of the New York Age, but Howard was her main source. He also wrote the forward.” In addition to Time Bomb, a series of articles appeared in the California Eagle, a black newspaper in Los Angeles. “The author was a mysterious white Southern reporter who wrote under the pseudonym of Amos Dixon. Dixon put forward essentially the same thesis as Time Bomb but offered a more detailed description of the possible roles of Loggins, Hubbard, and Collins. He also alleged that another brother of Milam and Bryant, Leslie Milam (now dead) took part in the crime,” wrote David T. Beito and Linda Royster Beito (”Why It’s Unlikely the Emmett Till Murder Mystery Will Ever Be Solved,” History News Network, 4/26/04).
—

Being a florist can be a very exciting and challenging career. Many people of all ages, from other working backgrounds are being retrained and entering the floristry industry.

If you are considering a career in floristry, you should enjoy working with flowers and be willing to learn all aspects of the floristry profession. You will need to be able to arrange flowers in an attractive manner and be a reasonably quick worker.

In our Floristry Diploma Course we teach you how to create floral designs for all types of occasions.

As a florist is dealing closely with the public, you should have a genuine liking for people, and have a pleasant and helpful manner.

Flowers touch the emotions of other peoples’ lives. Customers ordering funeral tributes are often relatives or close friends of the deceased and may be emotionally upset. As a florist, you will need to be sympathetic and understanding.

A florist has the pleasure of helping a bride-to-be select just the right flowers and type of bridal bouquet for the most important day of her life - her wedding day.

The florist shares the joy and excitment when a proud new father comes in to order flowers for his wife in hospital.

Floristry is not all glamour. There is a lot of hard work and long hours involved. The duties in a florist shop will include:-

Unpacking stock as it comes into the florist shop

Conditioning flowers and watering plants

Pricing merchandise and displaying it attractively

Attending to customers

Answering the telephone

Completing orders and making up designs for the shop

Making sure the florist shop is clean and tidy

Keeping book work up to date

Changing the shop window display

Working in a Florist Shop

You will need to be able to work efficiently. A typical day in a florist shop could include ten wreaths for an early morning funeral, several arrangements and posies. Often a posy or a sheaf of flowers will need to be made up while the customer waits.

A good employee has common sense, a positive attitude, is honest and a willing worker who sees what needs doing and does it in a cheerful and efficient manner.

An employer will appreciate a capable trustworthy employee who has the employer’s interest at heart and will co-operate and help with any duties involved in the running of the floristry business.

Applying for a Position in a Florist Shop.

You should present yourself favourably, be well groomed, polite and have an enthusiastic manner. If you have any references from previous positions, report cards or personal references, take these with you. You may like to take samples or photographs of your floral designs with you. Naturally, any photographs or samples should be of a high standard with the flowers arranged attractively and colours blended tastefully. Any wiring and taping should be neatly done.

The florist may ask you to make up an arrangement, posy or a sheaf. You will be expected to choose suitable flowers and foliage in colours which blend well together and make up a professional looking design in a reasonable amount of time (approximately 15-20 minutes for a standard arrangement). Do not worry if you are a bit nervous. Florists are usually understanding people and will make allowances for this. It is far better to be a little nervous rather than have an over confident and “know it all” manner.

A few years ago a position was advertised for a junior in a very busy florist shop in a leading shopping centre in Melbourne. There were over forty applicants, but one of our students was successful because she could show the florist she was capable of creating attractive floral designs.

After the interview is over thank the employer for seeing you, and if the position offered appeals to you, you could say “I am very impressed with your shop” or “I would really like the opportunity of working for you”. An employer would much rather employ a person who really wants the position in preference to someone who is indifferent.

OWNING YOUR OWN FLORIST SHOP.

Many people find the idea of going into business for themselves very tempting. You may want to open your own florist shop, but you should be fully aware of all the facts before you make a decision to start up or buy into a business.

HOW TO DECIDE IF YOU ARE THE RIGHT TYPE OF PERSON TO GO INTO A FLORIST BUSINESS FOR YOURSELF.

Advantages

You will have a feeling of fulfilment of being involved in such a creative industry such as floristry.

If you run a successful florist business it can be far more rewarding financially than working for wages.

There is a feeling of security in owning your own successful florist business.

You will find running your own florist shop is never dull. You will never know what each day will bring. Working for yourself is far more exciting than going to work in an often dull routine job.

You will meet some very interesting people through dealing directly with the public. This can often develop into lasting friendships.
You will be providing a real service to your customers. The skilled florist is always appreciated and will have a secure life-long career.

Disadvantages
(You will find it helpful if you do this questionnaire)

As Floristry is a lot of hard work and often long hours are involved, do you have the necessary health and energy to run a business?
Yes / No

Do you have enough money to start a florist business?
Do you have another source of borrowing money if necessary?
Sometimes you will need to inject extra funds into the business
Yes / No

Are you self motivated and have enough discipline to be able to organise yourself to see what the most important tasks are and to see each one is carried out?
Yes / No

Are you a reasonably quick worker?
Yes / No

When a problem arises, are you the type of person who can come up with a solution?
Yes / No

If you have a family, do you have someone you can rely on to help with the children?
Yes / No

To stand a good chance in a floristry business you should honestly be able to answer “Yes” to all the above questions.

How successful you are in Floristry, as in anything in life, will depend on how much time and effort YOU are prepared to put into it.

Floristry Diploma Course
Our floristry diploma course covers opening your own florist shop, how to find a job in a florist shop and working from home.
For full information on our floristry diploma courses please click onto http://www.floral-art-school.au/

Floral Art School of Australia and International Floral Design School

Copyright 2002 by Fay Chamoun
I grant permission to publish this article, electronically or in print, as long as the resource box are included, with a live link, and the article is not changed in any way.