Florist Supplies Guide

Part 1 in this 3-part series, Air, Sand, and Sources, detailed the basics of air drying and spoke briefly about drying more delicate flower specimens in clean, fine sand or a specialized material called silica gel. If you haven’t already, you might like to go back and browse Part 1 before you begin pouring sand into a box. Later, in Part 3, I’ll show you how you can make your own affordable flower-drying press. Now it’s time to roll up our sleeves and actually get the job done with sand and glycerin.

The Sand Process. By now you’ve probably run down a supply of suitable sand and a shoe box, so let’s dry just one flower to start with, and see how it turns out. A daisy, zinnia, carnation or small, compact chrysanthemum is safe for us beginners. Later on you’ll likely want to try other types, and perhaps dry several flowers in the same box.

Put an inch or so of sand in the bottom of a small box. Make a support for the flower head out of a piece of cardboard about the size of a recipe card folded in half the long way, with a half-inch “v” notch at the center of the fold. Place this folded card on the sand so it looks like a little army “pup” tent with its notch facing up.

Select a flower that is fresh, with short, tight petals and a stem that’ll fit in the box without bending. Lay the flower head on your notched card “tent” high enough so the bottom petals just clear the surface of the sand.

Now, with a paper cup, begin slowly and gently pouring sand all around the flower until it begins to be covered. No tamping. No shaking. And do it slowly so you don’t end up with a sand-squashed finished product. Continue pouring in sand gently, surrounding and covering the entire flower, stem and all.

You might need to use the wooden end of a small artist’s paintbrush to gently coax the petals into just the right natural position. So much for the tricky part.
Don’t put the cover on the box. Do carefully set it up on a closet shelf out of the way, especially if you have cats. (You cat owners know exactly what I mean.) Mark the box where the end of the stem is.

Drying time is usually between two and three weeks. It’s not wise to “peek” or otherwise disturb it during that time. Have you noticed that I continue to emphasize slowly and gently and carefully?

Pouring out the sand after drying is a very delicate operation, because your flower has now lost all of its flexibility, virtually all of its moisture, and has become quite fragile. Slowly tip the box away from the flower-end and pour the sand back into a clean pail. Gradually, the flower itself will be exposed and you may have to support it gently until it is completely free of the sand. Lightly tap away all the sand around the petals, and voil?, a perfect specimen!

Well, maybe. If it didn’t come out as well as you’d like, remember that the world is full of flowers, and we all get better with time and patience. So keep trying! The rewards are a beautifully preserved flower or arrangement that’s sure to please.

Preserving with Glycerin. Recently, a visitor to our web site sent an email asking about using glycerin as part of the process of “drying” flowers. I’m afraid my response wasn’t very satisfying, but since then I’ve come to better appreciate at least one method not previously consideredthat of using this easily-obtainable solution to significantly improve flower-preserving results, particularly foliage.

Glycerin, a component of many skin-softening preparations, actually absorbs into the cells of plantstem, leaf and, to a lesser extent, flower partsreplacing water. Then, after “drying” in the conventional way, this glycerin remains in plant tissues to give them a soft, natural feel and appearance. While flower color is often dulled, petals and leaves normally remain pliable, oftentimes with an attractive, semi-glossy “glow.” Particularly useful for ordinarily tough, woody foliage like eucalyptus, beech, boxwood and vining ivy, glycerin can also be utilized to good effect on practically any attractive foliage commonly used in dried arrangements, swags, wreaths or foliar table decorations.

Two methods are recommended: systemicwhere freshly-cut stems are placed in a solution of one-part glycerin and three-parts watervery much like stems or flowers in a vase; or by total immersion of similarly fresh stems in a slightly stronger solution: one-part glycerin and two-parts water. In both methods, the solutionat least to start withis warmed to 160- to 180-degrees (F) for better mixing, uptake and penetration of many plant’s wax-like coating (cuticle).

Systemic Method: First, prepare the solution (1 glycerin and 3 water), and heat as stated above and pour into a suitable container like a mason jar or large-mouth vase. Next, using a hammer or similar tool, lightly “crush” the lower one- or two-inches of stem to facilitate absorption. No need to pound it into oblivion. Immediately insert stems into your heated mixture to a depth of at least three inches. Watch the solution level and replace any amount drawn up by the plants so a minimum of three-inches of depth are constantly maintained.

The length of time needed for glycerin to completely replace the water varies with temperature, length of stem and density of plant tissuesfrom ten to 14 days, to as much as five or six weeks for especially tough types like magnolia, lemon and aspidistra. If the tips of leaves wilt or droop shortly after stems are removed from the solution, either re-crush and return to the glycerin until wilting is no longer an issue or simply hang the stems upside-down for a few days to allow absorbed glycerin to “flow” into the tips. (Remember Newton’s experiment with gravity?)

Immersion using a stronger solution will give similar end results but enough volume is required to totally submerge all parts of the stems and leaves beneath the surface. The process is completely uncomplicated: lay stems or individual leaves in a container (like a Pyrex or glass baking pan) and hold them down with something like a plate or saucer. Pour in 1:2 solution until all parts are covered and let stand for five to seven days or until foliage color has uniformly darkened. Remove and blot dry using paper towels or a dish cloth and either hang or spread out to dry.

Actual flower petals will likely lose most, if not all, of their original color. I’ve heardthough I’ve not confirmedthat previously-dried flowers such as hydrangea can be very lightly misted with 1:2 glycerin and allowed to air-dry. . .and, while colors or hues may be darkened, petals are supposed to be less brittle and less subject to damage. Perhaps one of our experienced readers will either confirm or refute this claim.
Here are a few tips to help insure satisfactory results:

* First, allowing freshly-cut stems to “get a little thirsty” before insertion or immersion will cause immediate and rapid uptake of glycerin solution. There’s a fine line here; a slight wilt will suffice. And don’t forget to crush stem ends just before placing in solution. The ideal air conditions: increased temperatures and reduced humidity.

* Look for at least 96% glycerin, and insist upon the vegetable type. Tallow-based glycerin may retain small quantities of animal fat that may produce a disagreeable odor in time.

* Glycerin can be reused several times. Discoloration has no negative effect, and even a little mold or surface mildew won’t spoil the mixture. When you’re done with each batch, run what remains through a new coffee filter or several layers of cheesecloth to remove residues and mold colonies, then store in a sealed glass container in a cool corner of the basement. Be sure to clearly mark the dilution rate.

* Ferns can be treated with glycerin but may produce less than satisfactory results.

* It is possible to include various dyes in glycerin solution to alter or enhance flower or foliage color.

Experimentand have fun!

Finally, most drugstores and pharmacies sell Glycerin, USP, in pint bottles at (more-or-less) reasonable prices. I’d stay away from the tiny 2-ounce bottles packaged for small-quantity customers at chain or supermarket drug stores. They are way over-priced. Ask your local pharmacist for the pint size.

Part 3 in this 3-part series will provide all the details (and a link to view pictures) of an affordable flower press that you can put togetheryourselfright in your own home.

Bulk glycerin is available from CraftLobby of Memphis, TN: http://www.craftlobby.com/glycerin998oz.html, or call them at 1-877-889-7140

View the list of Fred’s other articles at: http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Fred_Davis

Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, lecturer, and long-time nurseryman. He and his wife, Linda, own and operate a popular perennial nursery in Palermo, Maine, and maintain a no-frills gardening information website at: http://www.HillGardens.com/ where you’ll find answers to your gardening questions.

Sweet flowers alone can say what passion fears revealing

Thomas Hood poem, The Language of Flowers

Flowers and bouquets of flowers have a meaning of their own. Most of us know that a dozen red roses means, “Be mine.” But did you know, for example, that a primrose means, “I can’t live without you,” or that a purple hyacinth means, “Please forgive me,” or that a pink carnation means, “I’ll never forget you,” or that a gladiolus means, “Give me a break?”

Flower meanings have been used to convey ideas, feelings and messages for centuries. The word, floriography, has been coined for the assignment of meaning to flowers. There is a meaning to colors of flowers, to numbers of flowers, and to groups of flowers. It is a silent language that has been largely lost to us through lack of use.

In addition to the obvious choices of color and variety, the language of flowers also includes the way flowers are worn or presented. Presenting flowers upright conveys a positive meaning, but if they are presented upside down the meaning is the opposite. If a ribbon is included with the flowers and is tied to the left then the meaning of the flowers refers to the giver, but if the ribbon is tied to the right then the meaning refers to the recipient. Also, flowers can be used to answer questions. When they are presented with the right hand the answer is “yes,” but when presented with the left hand the answer is “no.”

History

The Turks in the 17th century seemed to develop flower meanings. In 1718 the wife of the British ambassador to Constantinople, Lady Mary Wortley, wrote a letter expounding on the “Secret Language of Flowers” that she had discovered during her visits to Turkey. Europe quickly picked up on the concept.

In 1819 Louise Cortambert, under the pen name, Madame Charlotte de la Tour, wrote and published what seems to have been the first dictionary of the flower language entitled, Le Language des Fleurs. It was a small book, but it became a popular reference on the subject.

During the Victorian era, the reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1901, the meaning and language of flowers became increasingly popular. Victorian women especially picked up the silent language that allowed them to communicate feelings and meanings that the strict propriety of the times would not allow. Tussie-mussies, a bouquet of flowers wrapped with a lace doily and tied with a satin ribbon became a popular and valued gift of the times.

In 1884 a whole book on the subject and entitled, The Language of Flowers, by Jean Marsh and illustrated by Kate Greenaway, was published in London. It became popular and respected and has been the standard source for Victorian flower meaning ever since.

Selected Flower Meanings

Here are some selected flowers and their meanings, a short dictionary.

Almond flowers — Hope

Anemone — Forsaken

Aster — Symbol of love

Balm — Sympathy

Basil — Best wishes

Bay leaf — “I change but in death”

Bell flower, white — Gratitude

Bergamot — Irresistible

Bluebell — Constancy

Borage — Courage

Broom — Humility

Campanula — Gratitude

Carnation, pink — I’ll never forget you

Carnation, red — My poor heart aches for you

Carnation, striped — Refusal

China rose — Beauty always new

Chrysanthemum — Love

Clover, four leaved — “Be mine”

Coreopsis — Love at first sight

Cuckoo pint — Ardor

Daffodil — Regard

Daisy — Innocence, new-born, “I share your sentiment”

Fennel — Flattery

Fern — Sincerity

Forget-Me-Not — True love

Furze or Gorse — Enduring affection

French Marigold — Jealousy

Gardenia — Ecstasy

Gentian — Loveliness

Geranium — “You are childish”

Hare bell — Grief

Heartsease — “I am always thinking of you”

Honeysuckle — Bonds of love

Heather — Admiration

Hyacinth — I am sorry, Please forgive me

Ice Plant — “Your appearance freezes me”

Ivy — Fidelity, friendship, marriage

Jasmine — Grace

Jonquil — “I hope for return of affection”

Lavender — Luck, devotion

Lemon Balm — Sympathy

Lilac — First love

Lily — Purity, modesty

Lily of the Valley — Purity, the return of happiness

Lily, Calla — Beauty

Marigold — Health, grief or despair

Marjoram — Kindness, courtesy

Myrtle — Fidelity

Oregano — Joy

Orchid — Love, beauty, refinement

Pansy — Loving thoughts

Periwinkle — Happy memory

Phlox — Agreement

Poppy, red — Consolation

Primrose — I can’t live without you

Rose, cabbage — Ambassador of love

Rose, red — Love

Rose, pink — Grace, beauty

Rose, yellow — Friendship

Rosemary — Remembrance, constancy

Rue — Contrition

Sage — Gratitude, domestic virtue

Snowdrop — Hope

Star of Bethlehem — Purity

Sweet Pea — Departure, tender memory

Sweet William — Gallantry

Tuberose — Voluptuousness

Tulip, red — My perfect lover, Reclamation of love

Violet — Loyalty, modesty, humility

Violet, blue — Faithfulness

Wormwood — Grief

Wheat — Riches of the continuation of life

Willow, weeping — Mourning

Wallflower — Fidelity

Yew — Sorrow

The Rose

The Rose is the flower whose meaning we most understand, but here are some details of the meaning of the Rose that may be of further interest.

Rose, Black - You are my obsession

Rose, Champagne - You are tender and loving

Rose, Leonidas - Sweet love

Rose, Nicole - You are graceful and elegant, aristocratic

Rose, Orange - You are my secret love

Rose, Pink - Brilliant complexion; the glow of your smile; perfect happiness

Rose, Red - Passionate love; I love you

Rose, Single Stems - Simplicity

Rose, White - I am worthy of you; spiritual love; Innocence and Purity; Secrecy and Silence

Rose, White and Red - We are inseparable

Rose, White and Red Mixed - Unity; Flower emblem of England

Rose, White, Dried - Death is preferable to loss of virtue

Rose, Yellow - Friendship; Jealousy; I am not worthy

Rose, Bridal - Happy Love

Rose, Dark Crimson - Mourning

Rose, Hibiscus - Delicate beauty

Rose, Tea - I’ll remember always

Rose, Thornless - Love at first sight

Roses, Bouquet of Mature Blooms - Gratitude

Multiple Roses

Single bloom red Rose - Love at first sight or I still love you

Single Rose, any color - Gratitude or simplicity

2 Roses - Mutual feelings

3 Roses - I love you

7 Roses - I’m infatuated with you

9 Roses - We’ll be together forever

10 Roses - You are perfect

11 Roses - You are my treasured one

12 Roses - Be mine

13 Roses - Friends forever

15 Roses - I’m truly sorry

20 Roses - I’m truly sincere towards you

21 Roses - I’m dedicated to you

24 Roses - Forever yours

25 Roses - Congratulations

50 Roses - Unconditional love

99 Roses - I will love you all the days of my life

108 Roses - Will you marry me?

999 Roses - I love you till the end of time

What To Do

With the lists above you should be able to assemble a meaningful gift of flowers or a bouquet that conveys a complex thought. Wrap the flowers appropriately and present them in a significant manner. Then, just to be certain that your efforts are not misinterpreted, include a card that fully explains the meaning of your flowers.

After a few flower presentations you should be able to drop the explanatory notes and begin enjoying and sharing the silent language of flowers.

***************

Garry Gamber is a public school teacher and entrepreneur. He writes articles about real estate, health and nutrition, and internet dating services. He is the owner of http://www.Anchorage-Homes.com and http://www.TheDatingAdvisor.com.

In the past few years I’ve read about and have seen more interest in wildflowers, so I figure it’s about time I jump in and add my two cents.

I have watched in despair as some of my friends have created a wildflower bed in their yards, and have ended up with the biggest, ugliest patch of weeds I have ever seen. Why did they get weeds instead of wildflowers?

Two reasons.

One, they were armed with a lack of good information, and two, they were led to believe that planting a beautiful bed of wildflowers is so easy that a child could do it. Actually, a child could do it, and with great success. But only if that child were extremely lucky, or had a basic understanding of exactly how to plant a bed of wildflowers and achieve incredible success.

In the next few minutes I intend to arm you with enough good information so you can successfully plant a beautiful bed of wildflowers, and have your neighbors hanging over the fence asking you how ya did it.

First of all, you’ve got to understand what kind of a neighborhood wildflowers like to live in. They tend to prefer wide open spaces with at least 8 hours of sunshine each day. It’s true, they are sun worshipers. They also like the soil to be rich in nutrients, and well drained. They don’t like hard packed soil, and they don’t like to get their sneakers wet, only for short periods of time.

If you have an area that tends to be wet, wildflowers are not the answer.

Wildflowers can be used for weed control, and with a great deal of success. But you have to give the wildflowers a running start, or the weeds will keep the area “Wildflower Free”. Weeds and wildflowers are both sun worshipers, so whoever reaches the top first wins. Neither will grow well without adequate sunlight. If you use this to your advantage you can have a beautiful bed of wildflowers that requires little maintenance.

The secret is proper bed preparation. You must create a bed that is as weed free as possible. You can do this by removing all the vegetation from the area you intend to plant in, and then prepare the soil for planting by tilling or raking to a depth of just one inch or less. Do not disturb the soil any deeper than that, or you will just disturb dormant weed seeds that are just waiting to be brought back to the surface so they can grow. You should consider spraying the existing vegetation with Roundup before you remove it. This will kill all the roots that might still be in the soil.

Keep in mind that you need to spray the weeds or grass with Roundup at least three days before you disturb them. If you feel that the area you have chosen has a significant amount of weed seed near the surface, you might consider letting the soil sit for about six days after you work it, then work it again. Do this over and over, but don’t work the soil more than one inch deep. The longer you continue this process the more apt you are to get the bed as weed free as possible.

Most weed seeds germinate rather quickly, so when you bring them to the surface through your cultivation efforts, you are giving them a chance to germinate. But then when you work the soil again in six days, you will actually interrupt the germination process and the seed will be spent. The longer you continue the process, the fewer viable weed seeds you will have to contend with. Of course additional seeds are blowing in all the time, so it’s unrealistic to think that you can create a planting bed that is free of weed seed.

The most important aspect of this process is to have your bed as ready as possible, at the ideal time for planting wildflower seeds. The secret of success is to plant the wildflower seeds at the ideal time so they take off growing immediately, and beat the weeds at their own game.

The ideal time? Depends on where you live. If you’re in zones one through six, you should plant in the spring. If you’re in zones seven through 11, you should probably plant in the fall.

Wildflower seeds like warm soil. They will germinate best with a soil temperature of 68 to 70 degrees F. So if you live in a cooler region, you should wait until later in the spring to plant. There’s no point planting when the soil temperature is 45 degrees and have the seeds just lay there while some of the weed seeds germinate. You’d be much better off to continue working the soil as described above until the soil temperature is up to 68 degrees.

I’ll say it again, just in case you missed it earlier. Don’t work the soil any deeper than one inch.

Now for planting the wildflower seeds.

The best way to plant your wildflower seeds is to distribute them with a small hand held broadcast spreader, or to apply them in a manner that mimics that technique. In order to get the best coverage you should thoroughly mix the seeds with dry sand, vermiculite, or potting soil to increase the volume before you spread them. It’s a lot easier to evenly distribute five pounds of granular material over an area than it is 8 ounces.

As you spread the seeds, walk in straight lines from one end of the bed to the other. Then do the same thing from the side of the bed in a crisscross pattern to the first set of footsteps you made. This will give you thorough and even distribution. This is why you should mix the seeds with some sort of filler material before you start, so you have plenty of volume to work with, and will be able to cover the area completely and evenly.

I urge you to visit www.wildseedfarms.com and ask for a catalog, or call their toll free number. 1-800-848-0078. This company publishes one of the most complete and informative catalogs I’ve ever seen. They have a color photo of each variety, along with a good description. They even tell you what percentage of seeds you can expect to germinate, and this varies from variety to variety, so they list this information for each variety.

They also tell you how long each variety takes to germinate, and what the ideal soil temperature is. They tell you how many seeds are in each pack, how many seeds in a pound, and how much seed you need to cover a given area. Wildflower seeds have germination periods of 6 to 28 days, so you have to keep this in mind as you plan your garden. If you select a variety that has a 28 day germination period, you should select a second variety with a much quicker germination period and mix them together before sowing.

If you were to sow only seeds with a 28 day germination period, the weeds would get a jump on the wildflowers, and you would likely end up with a weed garden. When you mix seeds with different germination periods, the faster germinating seeds will come up very quickly, and act as a nurse crop for the seeds that need more time, keeping the weeds and birds at bay until all the seeds can germinate.

Good luck with your wildflower garden! Have fun, and enjoy.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Mike McGroarty, the author of this article, would like to give you this Ebook: “The Gardener’s Secret Handbook”. Stop by his http://www.freeplants.com website and get your copy right now. It’s his way of saying hello! Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

There is nothing quite as welcome as those beautiful spring flowers that seem to emerge from nowhere to welcome the arrival of spring. Bulb type flowers are really unique plants, because they spend most of their days resting quietly beneath the surface of the soil. Then right on schedule, up they come, full of bloom and vigor, and then almost as fast as they came, they go. Except for the green leafy part of the plant that tends to linger longer than we would like them to.

Despite their short bloom time and unattractive foliage after the blooms are gone, they are still a wonderful addition to any landscape. But how should you care for them? First let’s talk about how to use them in your landscape. Flowers of all kinds are best when planted in groupings. Many people buy 25 or 50 bulbs and just go around the yard planting helter skelter. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but when planted that way they tend to blend in with the landscape and really don’t show up well at all. When you plant them in large groups they are a breathtaking showpiece.

In the early spring start thinking about where you would like to create a bed for flower bulbs. Prepare the bed by raising it with good rich topsoil, and if at all possible add some well composted cow manure. Do this in the spring while you are in the gardening mood; you may not be in the fall. Over the summer fill the bed with annual flowers to keep the weeds down, and to pretty up your yard for the summer. Come fall all you have to do is pull out the annuals and plant your bulbs to the depth recommended on the package.

If you think you could have a problem with squirrels digging up the bulbs and eating them, you can also wrap the bulbs in steel wool, leaving just the tip of the bulb exposed so it can grow out of the little wire cage you’ve created. Or you can just plant the bulbs and then cover the bed with chicken wire or plastic fencing until the bulbs start to grow in the spring.

When the bulbs come up in the spring and start blooming, you should clip off the blooms as they start to wither. This keeps the bulb from producing seeds, which requires a lot of energy, and you want the bulb to use all of its available energy to store food in preparation for the bulb’s resting period. Once the bulbs are completely done blooming you don’t want to cut off the tops until they are withered and die back. The million dollar question is how to treat the tops until that happens.

Many people bend them over and slip a rubber band over them, or in the case of bulbs like Daffodils tie them with one of the long leaves. This seems to work because it is a very common practice among many experienced gardeners. However, Mike is about to rain on the parade.

I strongly disagree with this theory because back about 6th grade we learned about photosynthesis in science class. To recap what we learned, and without going into the boring details, photosynthesis is the process of the plant using the sun’s rays to make food for itself. The rays from the sun are absorbed by the foliage and the food making process begins. In the case of a flower bulb this food is transported to the bulb beneath the ground and stored for later use.

So basically the leaves of the plant are like little solar panels. Their job is to absorb the rays from the sun to begin the process known as photosynthesis. If we fold them over and handcuff them with their hands behind their back, they are not going to be able to do their job. It’s like throwing a tarpaulin over 80% of a solar panel.

In order for the leaves to absorb the rays from the sun, the surface of the foliage has to be exposed to the sun. On top of that, when you bend the foliage over, you are restricting the flow of nutrients to the bulb. The veins in the leaves and the stem are a lot like our blood vessels. If you restrict them the flow stops.

You decide. I’ve presented my case. Bending them over seems to work, but I’ve spent a lot of money on my bulbs. I want them running at full speed. What I do is clip the blooms off once they are spent, and just leave the tops alone until they are yellow and wilted. If they are still not wilted when it’s time to plant my annual flowers, I just plant the annuals in between the bulbs. As the bulbs die back the annuals tend to grow and conceal them. If one shows through I clip it off. It seems to work well for me.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.

Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the landscape gardening/nursery industry. He’s spent the better part of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Bulb is a general term used for plants which have a food storage organ which allows them to grow and flower quickly once the ideal conditions are available. There are four types of “bulb”: true bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes.

The Gardener can find a huge and colourful selection of bulbs for every season of the year. Most are fully hardy but some, such as Cannas, need to be lifted for the winter. Dahlias dislike wet conditions so many people also lift these to avoid the worst of the winter weather. Below are a few examples of the bulbs which can be grown in each season.

Spring

Daffodil, Scilla, Tulip, Iris, Chionodoxa, Anemone

Summer

Allium, Galtonia, Lily, Canna, Gladioli, Dahlia

Autumn

Colchicum, Amaryllis, Nerine, Cyclamen hederifolium, Eucomis. Sternbergia

Winter

Cyclamen coum, Winter aconite, Snowdrop, Hippeastrum, Hyacinth

Some tips when buying bulbs:

• Buy early and plant immediately
• Always choose plump, large bulbs
• Ensure the outer skin is intact and clean
• Do not buy bulbs already in growth
• The growing point should be firm
• Squeeze the bulb to check it is firm
• A good bulb is even in colour with no blotches
• Buy snowdrops “in the green”*

Planting bulbs:

• Ensure soil is free draining
• Add well-rotted compost to sandy soils
• For naturalisation, plant in autumn
• Plant tulips four times their own depth
• Most bulbs prefer a sunny site
• Ensure bulbs are planted pointing upwards
• Dig heavy clay soil and add coarse grit
• Add organic matter to the soil when resting
• Plant most bulbs three times their own depth
• Plant rhizomes just below the surface
• Plant snowdrops “in the green”*
• Most bulbs are suitable for containers

Aftercare:

• After flowering the reserves of the bulb are built-up from the leaves. Do not remove them until they dry out
• Lift and divide clumps after a few years
• After flowering feed with tomato fertiliser at half the strength used for tomatoes
• Mulch during the resting period
• Division should be done in the resting period

Storing bulbs:

• Most bulbs can be stored
• Check every few weeks and remove any which are rotting.
• Clean off soil and remove foliage/roots. Ensure bulbs are clean and dry, dust with fungicide. Place in paper bag and label. Keep cool and dry.

Forcing Prepared Hyacinths:

• Buy as soon as possible
• Plant in a bulb fibre compost, close together with the tips just showing above the compost
• Water so the compost is damp
• Place in cool, dark place
• When the bud is visible bring into the light
• A cool room is best

Problems:

• Bulb Blindness: Buds fail to flower.

Caused by overcrowding and a lack of nutrients. Lift and replant in a fertilised soil.

• Basal Rot: A brown stain around the scales of the bulb.

There is no cure, dispose of safely.

• Bulb Flies: To avoid, pull soil over the neck of the bulb as the leaves die down.
• Storage Rot: Discard rotting bulbs to avoid spreading. Dust with fungicide.

The Bulb Gardening Year

Spring

• Replant pot-grown bulbs bought for an instant effect
• Plant snowdrops and snowflakes bought “In the green”*
• Check for any signs of grey mould and spray with a fungicide to reduce infection
• Stake tall bulbs
• In late spring, plant out tender bulbs like gladioli and begonias
• Deadhead flowers to concentrate energy into the bulbs
• In late spring, clear away yellowing foliage to eliminate the homes for slugs and snails
• Store container bulbs in a cool out of the way place
• Feed potted bulbs with liquid fertilizer
• Water indoor cyclamen as they get new leaves. Feed every two weeks

Summer

• Lift and divide overcrowded clumps as the leaves die down
• Collect dry seed in paper bags and store in a cool dry place
• Clear away dying foliage to tidy the border and avoid the spread of disease
• Rake over holes left in the soil by old bulb stems to lessen the chance of insects laying eggs in the tunnel. Mulch the whole area
• Plant out pot-grown summer and autumn-flowering bulbs to fill gaps in the border
• Re-pot winter and spring bulbs
• Tie gladioli and tall dahlias to stakes for support
• Buy new bulbs from your local garden centre or order from bulb catalogues

Autumn

• Plant commercial bulbs
• Prepare heavy or compacted soil for planting by digging deeply and adding grit. Sprinkle a general-purpose fertilizer into the planting hole, and plant the bulbs at the required depth
• Early autumn, plant containers with specially-prepared bulbs to flower in midwinter
• Mark the location of your bulbs with labels to avoid disturbance later
• Lift dahlias and gladioli and prepare for winter storage

Winter

• Clear away any old foliage that might impede fresh growth. Mulch the site
• Add a general purpose fertilizer to the surrounding soil
• Store bulbs in a box in a cool, frost free place and check regularly for disease
• Move groups of bulbs. Dig up the clump and place in the new position
• Sow commercial bulb seed
• If leaves show signs of disease lift the whole plant and dispose of it
• Bring forced bulbs into a cool place to flower
• Order late summer flowering bulbs

* “In the Green”: Plants are lifted just after flowering with the leaves still intact. Ensure they never dry out. Plant back at their original depth. The papery sheath around the bulb should just be visible.

Linda Peppin runs The Gardening Register which is an easy to follow, informative website covering all aspects of gardening. For more gardening related articles visit her site at http://www.gardeningregister.co.uk.

The articles on her website must not be copied or used elsewhere.

You’ve always liked flowers and you think the idea of turning emotions into floral expressions sounds like tremendous fun. You are between careers and have been investigating business opportunities in your community. Yesterday, while perusing the real estate magazine in your county, you notice that the family owned, downtown flower shop is for sale. The ad says it’s a turnkey operation. This is your lucky day. Or is it?

Let’s look before we leap, OK? Here are some factors to consider:

1. What is the current state of health of this business?

   You should be able to see the financial records and consult professional help if needed.

2. What is the reputation of this business in the community?

   If there are negative feelings about the business in the community, you need to consider a name change and making a big show of the change in management. Factor in the cost of a face-lift on the fa?ade of the physical facility.

3. What assets are included in the selling price?

   If you are buying the building, equipment, coolers and inventory, you need to carefully assess the age, condition and viability of these items. For example, there may be $10,000 worth of inventory in the store, and the seller may be able to document the value by showing invoices. However, if the inventory is shop worn, out of date or not in keeping with your business plan, the value of that inventory to you may be quite a bit lower than that $10,000.

   Are you also buying the Accounts Receivables as an asset? If so, you should do some serious research into the exact state of these accounts. Many traditional florists have struggled with house accounts. They have extended credit as a matter of tradition, rather than good business sense and have found themselves in extreme cash flow trouble.

4. What liabilities are you buying?

   You’ll need to be very clear about any debt or bills you will be taking over. Be sure that you hire professional help to outline any such debt in your sales agreement. Because of seasonality of the flower business and the existence of house accounts, many retail florists have difficulty with cash flow; you should avoid any situation where you will be paying bills run up by the previous owner.

   Also, you should take time to consult with the Wholesalers that you will be buying from. Discuss your payment terms and lay the groundwork for a healthy business relationship with a reputable Wholesaler or two.

5. What about the business name?

   If the name of the business is valuable in your market, you probably won’t want to change the name of the business. In any case, consider a clause in the bill of sale limiting the use of the name by the previous owner in the future. This can be very sticky in the case of an owner’s own name, for example “Smith Florist”.

6. Will you need to hire all new staff?

   Sometimes a previous owner chooses to stay on and work for the new owner. This can pose tremendous difficulties for all involved, so tread lightly on this territory. It’s an extreme analogy, but think about the difficulties in open adoptions between birth and adoptive parents. Everyone has their own style and it can be difficult to accept change or let go of something you have worked very hard to build.

   That being said, many valued staff members at successful florists have weathered the change in ownership of their place of employment. Do make every effort to retain good people. Just be sure to be clear about your expectations so that the separation can be as painless as possible should that become necessary.

7. What is the correct timing?

   Take the holidays into account when you plan your purchase of a flower shop. Valentine’s day is the single largest day, but Christmas is more of a marathon. Mother’s Day, weddings, proms, graduations and anniversaries team up to make the spring months a nice busy time. Depending upon your market, the summer can be a difficult time to make ends meet.

   Ideally, you’d take over a shop with enough time to get your feet wet before a holiday, but not with so much down time that your funds dry up before you can get going.

8. What other opportunities exist, and at what cost?

   Here’s the acid test. Take the time to sort out the options. Let’s work on the assumption that you WILL own a flower shop in the next year. Take a big sheet of paper and draw a line down the center. At the top of the left column, write “Buy and Existing Flower Shop”. In the Right column, write “Open a New Flower Shop”. Now draw a line through the middle of the paper, so you have a top and bottom. The top is for pros and the bottom is for cons. Fill in the grid with as many items as you can figure. Ask your trusted business friends and floral professionals for help. You’ll be considering such items as the finances and the marketing plan of your business. When you have completed this exercise, you should have two things. One is a good tool to help you make a decision. The second is the beginnings of a business plan.

   Whatever your decision, a business plan is essential. It is your roadmap for success and will be necessary for a business loan. It is worth the extra time at the onset of this journey to compare the options and make the best decision you can.

   Karen Marinelli is a Floral Industry Professional with nineteen years of experience in the academic, retail and wholesale sectors of the industry. She believes the common goal should be to sell more flowers to more people, more often. For information on How to Open a Flower Shop, visit http://openaflowershop.com/.

   To order flowers online, visit http://send-flowers-online.ws/.

Flowering apricot trees offer spectacular flowering blooms earlier than any other flowering tree, sometimes blooming as early as January. This early flowering can result in cold weather damage in some areas of the United States. New outstanding cultivars of flowering apricot trees can be purchased from mail order nursery retailers. Prunus mume flowers, in early spring with flower colors of red, pink, and white, all blooming on the same twigs of the tree. Double flowers of apricot, dark-red cover the limbs of the flowering apricot, Matsubara Red. Pure white flowers appear in early spring on the flowering apricot, Rosemary Clarke, and the pink flowering, weeping apricot, W.B. Clarke, blooms in January. Rose-red flowers appear on the flowering apricot tree, Peggy Clarke, in early spring.

Mimosa flowering trees, Albizia julibrissin ‘Rosea’, was introduced into the United States from the Orient, and was commonly known as the ‘Silk Tree’. The feather red or pink blooms cover the mimosa branches in summer, and the fragile graceful leaves are fern-like, and they flutter in air when wafted by the slightest breeze. The Mimosa tree can be grown in almost any type of soil and is cold hardy from zones 6 - 10.

Flowering Peach trees, Prunus persica, were very commonly seen and grown in the early United States, but a gardener faces a difficult task to find a large flowering peach tree to buy at a nursery. Pink flowering peach trees, Prunus persica ‘Pink’, cultivars can be purchased to bloom either early or late; White flowering peach, Prunus persica ‘White’, can also be purchased in an early or late blooming cultivar; Prunus persica ‘White Icicle’, Peppermint flowering peach trees produce variegated flowers randomly colored petals of red, pink, and white. The Helen Borchers flowering cherry, Prunus persica ‘Helen Borchers’ is a recent outstanding blooming.

Redbud flowering trees, Cercis canadensis, are also known as the Eastern Redbud tree and were first collected to plant at the home of John Bartram, the famous early American botanist of the 1700’s. In early spring the leafless twigs are completely covered with red-pink flowers, qualifying this redbud tree as a favorite, native American flowering tree to plant and grow in the garden landscape.

The flowering honeylocust tree, Gledisia triacanthus inermis, is one of the most beautiful of all early spring blooming trees. Gardeners find it difficult to locate and buy honeylocust trees from a nursery. The fragrant white flowers appear along with the airy fern-like leaves that flutter as a bright green backdrop to the glowing, pure-white flowers that attract a host of bird species to nest in the dense honeylocust branches.

The Wisteria, Wisteria sinensis, is usually thought of as being a vine, but the vine habit can be overcome, if it is staked after grafting and trained to grow as a wisteria tree. Wisteria sinensis ‘Cooke’s Purple’, grows into a fragrant, purple stream of pea-like flowers, trailing long and followed by green, glistening leaves that are cold hardy from zone 5 - 9. A grape-like cluster of purple flowers emit a fragrance of grapes with pure white blooms in the cultivar; Wisteria tree, Wisteria sinensis ‘Texas White’, is an excellent white-flowering Wisteria tree.

A number of less pursued flowering trees are: Japanese Snowball Tree, Viburnum plicatum, that flowers in summer and again in the fall if abundant water is applied. The grapefruit size, greenish-white flower clusters are stunning and dramatic, as they bloom before the leaves appear. The Jerusalem tree, Parkinsomia aculeata, is also called the ‘Jew Tree’; by tradition was rumored to be the tree that was used to prepare the ‘crown of thorns’ that was placed on the head of the crucified, Jesus Christ in Jerusalem. The fern-like leaves provide a background of green to view the golden yellow flowers that begin blooming in summer and then reappear several times until frost. Paulownia, Blue Princess or Empress Tree, produces spectacular clusters of purple-blue flowers, sometimes growing three feet in length. This fast growing tree is best known for being planted as a commercial timber tree investment by former President, Jimmy Carter. Red Tips, Photinia fraseri, is best known in the spring growing bright red tips and waxy leaves, however, red tip is very fast growing, and in late spring, following the tips of leaves reddening, giant clusters of fragrant white flowers cover the tree. Scarlet locust trees, Sesbania grandifloria, is a native tree to the United States, growing vigorously in wetlands and producing brilliant scarlet blooms in the spring. The flowers completely cover the twigs of the tree with a backdrop of bright-green, fern-like leaves, delicately fluttering in the slightest breeze. Very few trees offer recurring flowers of such brilliant colors like Scarlet locust trees, Sesbania grandiflora.

Sweetbay Magnolia, Magnolia virginiana, produces bold-white, lemon scented blooms, appearing much like a miniature Southern Magnolia flower, Magnolia grandiflora. The waxy, Sweetbay magnolia blooms appear, beginning in the fall. This evergreen magnolia tree has fragrant bark and leaves that can be substituted for the herb, bay leaves. Sweetbay magnolia trees turn dramatic colors of red, yellow, and orange during the fall, but fall intermittently followed by waxy-green new leaves. Even though the Southern Magnolia, Magnolia grandiflora, is classified as an evergreen shade tree, it is famous for the gorgeous fragrant flowers of huge proportions, one foot wide, that bloom in early summer. Renowned Artists of paints and cameras have admired the glorious Magnolia blossom and chose to pose them to compose masterpiece works that would be celebrated in Museums of the World. Many hybridizers have chosen to genetically create Japanese Magnolias of many sizes and colors; white, red, pink, purple and red. Some mail order nurseries offer sites to buy outstanding hybrids like: Alexander Magnolia, Brooklyn Girls magnolia trees, Butterfly magnolia, Little Gem magnolia tree, Leonard Messel magnolia shrub, Randy Magnolia Bush, Southern Select magnolia tree, Star White magnolia, Sunsation magnolia, Wada’s Memory magnolia tree, and Yellow Lantern Magnolia trees.

Gordonia flowering tree, Gordonia lasianthus, is also known as the loblolly bay tree, that is closely related to and similar to the “Lost Gordonia”, that had almost become extinct, except for the fortunate rescue by famous botanist and explorer, William Bartram, who in 1773 wrote in his book, Travels, page 465, a memorable description. The flowering tree was named by him after his good friend, Benjamin Franklin, Franklinia altamaha, “I had the opportunity of observing the new flowering shrub, resembling the Gordonia, in perfect bloom, as well as bearing ripe fruit. It is a flowering tree of the first order, for beauty and fragrance of blossoms…the flowers are very large, expand themselves perfectly, and are of snow white colour, and ornamental with a crown of tassel of gold coloured refulgent staminae…” We never saw it grow in any other place, nor have I ever seen it growing wild, in all my travels from Pennsylvania…to the Mississippi.” Cassia trees, are covered completely in in the fall with golden yellow flowers in late fall growing to 12 feet tall. Cassia trees are cold hardy in zones 8 - 10, and the beautiful fern-like leaves almost escape notice when the Cassia tree is in full bloom. The Chaste Tree, Vitex agnus-castus, is covered with flowers in summer and fall with fragrant flowers in colors of blue or white being available to buy. The gray-green leaves of the Chaste trees are very fragrant, and the trees are cold hardy in Zones 6 - 10.

Learn more about various plants, or purchase ones mentioned in this article by visiting the author’s website: www.tytyga.com

Well, here it is February; the month containing, arguably, the most anticipated (or dreaded) day of the year: Valentine’s Day. Before offering readers advice on how to have the most romantic evening ever! I wanted to find out exactly what women really want from their paramours on that special night, so I sent a little survey around to find out how women rated the ingredients customarily thought to make up a wonderfully memorable evening. Here’s what I found out.

♥ Even though it seems to be a romantic clich?, most women indicated their top choice to be a fairytale evening of candlelight, a pouring out of emotion, and a proposal of marriage (that is, if it’s appropriate). I guess nothing can beat a man on his knees begging you to accept his love and a diamond ring!

♥ The second highest choice was receiving a gift of jewelry and a romantic dinner. A lot of women liked imagining their boyfriends or husbands going out and purchasing a surprise just for them; the combination of thoughtfulness, time spent, and value made them feel special.

♥ The third most popular choice was a relaxed evening including flowers and dinner, although one controversial point was the flowers. Most women rated them very to moderately important, while some women didn’t care either way. (The tricky part here is to know which category your lover falls into!)

♥ Interestingly, a big whoop-dee-doo of a night including a limousine, dinner, flowers, and a gift was not rated very high among most women, as was an evening at the theater.

♥ When it came to a “sexy night alone with your man” women were split fifty-fifty on this one. When I investigated a little bit, it seemed that the results related to age and frequency of sex during the rest of the year — a lot of older, divorced women rated it a top choice, while younger, more active women did not.

♥ Surprisingly, one of the choices I put on the survey was “a shopping spree” and that was only a moderate choice for women - are they crazy?!

♥ And last but not least was the card. Let me put these results to you in the carefully-chosen words of one woman, “It’s the most important thing. If you don’t have that, don’t come near me.”

Please. Take my advice: take your time picking out the card. If you grab the wrong one (or the last one), you could end up in the doghouse. Here is a true story to help you understand the weight of this simple, thoughtful gesture.

On a crisp February 15th morning several years back, I was at the office getting coffee in the kitchen when a newly-married woman with whom I worked asked me about my Valentine’s Day. Since nothing very eventful happened, I gave her the usual, “it was nice,” and asked about her evening. She gestured with her finger for me to follow her to her desk, as if there was a big secret she was about to share with me. The look on her face, however, was not one of joy, but one of bewilderment. With a furrowed brow and a low voice, she handed me an envelope and said, “Look at the card my husband gave me. I’m so upset. I’m don’t know what to think. I knew my husband was not the smartest guy in the world, but I’m beginning to think he can’t even read.” Now confused myself, I opened the envelope and pulled out the card. At first glance, it was a lovely card. It was larger than most cards, had pretty roses on it, and in large, sparkly script read, “Happy Valentine’s Day To My Uncle.” (I almost wet my pants.)

Think of it this way: when it’s all said and done, wouldn’t you rather have performed an act of love and kindness than pissed off the person whom you have to trust not to shave your eyebrows while you sleep?

Being a woman myself, I know that women are very aware of that particular holiday and usually don’t forget their mates, so I will only remind them that men like to be appreciated too! And whatever special (or unusual) effort your man makes for you, give him a break and acknowledge his gesture of love. (Baby steps. Rome wasn’t built in a day!)

My advice to men is just bite the bullet. Forget that she yelled at you for the way you eat, rolled you off the bed for snoring, or made you watch the Gilmore Girls marathon, and make some sort of gesture to celebrate your love for her. Women will usually appreciate anything you do for them and, whether they admit it or not, they enjoy being in the spotlight on that special night (and on their birthdays too!). Still, I’m sure there are those of you who think that this is a holiday concocted by big business to guilt people into spending money and you don’t want to buy into all of that nonsense — and I understand your point of view. However! Women talk. They compare stories. They prepare your meals, for heaven’s sake, so please, for your own health and mental well-being, if you follow one piece of advice in this column, let it be this: Don’t forget to buy her a card! And if you figure out a way to make her feel worshipped like the goddess she is, you may find her to be quite appreciative!

Audrey Valeriani began as the writer of two gift titles. SIMPLE WAYS TO A WOMAN’S HEART: Movie Star Maneuvers That Will Take Her Breath Away! was self-published in 1997, and IT’S NOT EASY BEING ME! Random Thoughts of the Modern Woman followed several years later. These humorous books were well-received and were featured in the prestigious, who’s-who Inside Track column of the Boston Herald. She also appeared live on one of Boston’s most popular radio stations, STAR 93.5 FM, where she discussed love and relationships, and even took calls from the listening audience!

Audrey has just finished a new, more comprehensive book about helping women to build self-esteem and improve their complex relationships with men. Her website http://www.theaccidentalexpert.com shares some of her personal experiences and allows site visitors to write in with relationship questions and opinions. It features her new workshop called Boot Camp For The Brokenhearted? which has been designed and proven to help participants get over relationships and move on with their lives.

Just because it is going to turn cold in a few months, doesn’t mean your yard has to look dull or lifeless. Believe it or not, there are other plant options that you can use to make your yard and garden look great year round.

So instead of thinking about plants going dormant, it’s time to start planning and planting a few things that will stay colorful and look good while everything else is brown and leafless. Actually, anything that remains evergreen throughout the winter months may be considered a candidate for winter interest, but I chose some plants that flower, have great structure, or produce berries.

Now’s the time to add some strong interest and color to your yard while there is still time to get everything planted, and established, before the really cold weather sets in.

I have included each plant’s ideal climate zone so you can get an idea of what will do well for you in your area. A brief list of zones is at the end of this article, or you can use a climate zone map.

Many more than 14 perennials could have been listed here, but I wanted to touch on some that are not as widely used, so you can really liven up your garden!

1. Viola tricolor - Johnny Jump Up - Zones 4 to 10

Produces neat flowers with faces in shades of yellow, blue, violet, and white. Flowers in fall and often in winter. Self-seeds readily.

2. Rosa rugosa - Rugosa Rose - Zones 2 to 10

This is a large shrub that grows to 8 feet. Has good fall color. What makes this plant appealing for winter are the large tomato-like hips that are produced after it flowers. The hips are quite a feature and last all winter long.

3. Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’ (’Autumn Joy’) - Zones 5 to 10
This plant has fleshy leaves and grows to 24 in (60 cm). It has large heads of pink flowers that appear in the fall that eventually fade to copper color and then turn red. So don’t cut them back until the spring to get the most interest from this plant.

4. Arum italicum - Italian Arum - Zones 7 to 10
Grows to 12 inches (30 cm). This is a tuberous perennial with broad arrow-shaped leaves that appear in the fall. The foliage dies back in the summer just as the berries appear, which to me, aren’t worth it. After the berries die, the foliage reappears, remains until the next summer and is lush and green all winter.

5. Acorus gramineus - Sweet Flag - Zones 3 to 11
Native to Japan, it has soft, curved leaves under 12 inches (30 cm) long and about ? inch (6 mm) wide. This plant is grown mainly for its foliage, which is sweet smelling. In the winter, it has beautiful texture and pleasing green, white and chartreuse colors.

6. Miscanthus sinensis - Eulalia - Zones 4 to 10
One of the most beautiful and least invasive ornamental grasses, it forms arching clumps up to 12 feet (3.5 m) Other varieties are smaller, but most have fine leaves that have color well into winter.

7. Rohdea japonica - Lily of China - Zones 7 to 10
During the winter months it forms clumps of deep green long leaves that are 8 -18 inches (20-45 cm) long. This plant has bright red berries during winter that contrast the dark green leaves very well.

8. Dianthus gratianopolitanus - Cheddar Pink - Zones 5 to 9
Has neat and tidy mounds of blue-gray, linear leaves that develop into broad mats that are 12 inches (30 cm) or more in width. The low-growing silvery foliage contrasts nicely with other perennials. Flowers will continue until a hard frost.

9. Veronica blue - Speedwell - Zones 3 to 9
Even with the temperatures as low as 9F and several snow days, this plant still has beautiful burgundy foliage and looks great in front of some dwarf pine shrubs.

10. Iberis sempervirens - Candytuft - Zones 4 to 11
Good for rock gardens. Grows 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) high with a spread of 18 to 24 inches (45 - 60 cm). ‘Snowflake’ is very attractive with glossy, dark green leaves. Very frost hardy.

11. Helleborus - Zones 6 to 9, others 3 to 9
This genus has tons of choices that are hardy in many climate zones. The Christmas Rose is popular for its mid-winter white flowers, often appearing in the snow. Others have flowers in shades of green, red, and purple. Awesome for winter interest, with its great foliage and flowers.

12. Erica carnea - Winter Heath - Zones 5 to 9
This is a low growing plant usually under 12 inches (30 cm) with very dense branches. Through most the winter and into early spring in has a great display of small urn-shaped flowers that are purple -pink. There are many well known cultivars to choose from.

13. Liriope muscari and spicata - Zones 6 to 10, and 4 to 10
A clump forming perennial with some cultivars having leaves so dark they are practically black. This is good to group with other plants for interest. Good for a ground cover or path edging.

14. Ophiopogon planiscapus -Black Mondo Grass - Zones 6 to 10

An interesting cultivar is ‘Ebony Night’ because it has purple-black stiff leaves that form clumps 10 inches (25 cm) in height, and 12 inches (30 cm) in width. Slow growing, but beautiful when combined with other plants to show off its unusual color.

ZONES BY: ?F

ZONE 1: below - 50
ZONE 2: -50 to - 40
ZONE 3: - 40 to - 30
ZONE 4: - 30 to - 20
ZONE 5: - 20 to -10
ZONE 6: - 10 to 0
ZONE 7: 0 to 10
ZONE 8: 10 to 20
ZONE 9: 20 to 30
ZONE 10: 30 to 40
ZONE 11: above 40

Hilary Rinaldi is a professional landscaper with over 20 years gardening industry experience. She also is a professional public speaker and educator sharing gardening advice and tips to as many people as she can. For more gardening tips and suggestions go to her website: http://www.weekendgardener.net

Following are a few paragraphs about the on going battle I had with some of my plants!

Way back when I was just starting to garden I excitedly gathered starts from here and there, and several times, when I asked people for a particular start, they, with raised eyebrow, would ask me if I was sure I wanted that plant as it could be invasive.

Naively, and just so thrilled to get a new start (I had garden fever bad Ha!), I said that wasn’t a problem.

Wow! Was I ever clueless!

I had a lot to learn as to just how INVASIVE some plants could be and how hard some were to kill out.

Following are a few short tales of the battles I waged with those wonderful starts I collected years ago.

Horseradish will be the first I’ll mention, as it was one of the first starts I acquired. I found it to be a very worthy opponent.

In some book about companion planting I read that horseradish was good to raise by potatoes, so I rushed out and found a start of it! Well, I’ve long since quit raising potatoes, but I still have a thriving supply of horseradish. Slow spreading, but, as far as I’m concerned, impossible to get rid of. When you dig it up any tiny pieces of root that remain will start new plants. I tried covering it with black plastic for two years and it just sent out shoots to come up in other places. I guess we will grow old together.

Wild Blackberry is the next opponent. I love blackberries, so I asked a friend who lives in the country for a start of hers. With raised eyebrow she asked me “Are you sure you want this?” I assured her, “Oh yes, I’m going to train it to a trellis.” she just said ok with more raised eyebrows. (Are you laughing yet?) Train wild blackberry to a trellis, no such thing for me. For two years I had delicious berries but the thorns (from Hades) ripped me to shreds, and the underground runners were sending up new shoots in my tomato patch, my carrot patch, and in my neighbors yard, to their delight and mine. NOT! The more I cut them down the more they ran. It finally took cutting them to the ground (with ripped up body parts to accomplish this) and covering them with black plastic for four years to finally kill them out. This is one battle I won!!

Mint, of which I have three varieties, is sure to be another plant that I’ll grow old with. I got the Apple mint and Lemon mint from the same friend that gave me the start of blackberry, with an even stronger reaction. She warned me how aggressive and invasive mint could be. I purchased the Peppermint from a retailer. I was sure I could contain the mint with some mulch and some of those four-inch barriers. I planted it by the walkways in my flower and herb gardens, as I thought the fragrance that would be released, as people brushed against it would be nice. That part of my plan did work. These plants do smell good when crushed, but believe me no four-inch barrier and mulch is going to hold mint in check! The Apple mint and the Peppermint spread by runners that just hopped over or dove under the barriers and through the mulch and ran wherever they choose. Each year I spend considerable time pulling it up out of the flower and herbs beds. Last year I turned my back on it for a while to long (as I was distracted with this computer) and ended up taking a weed eater to it, because it had completely taken over one flower bed. Then I had to get down and pull up the underground roots and runners. How it got into that bed is a mystery. That bed was at the opposite end of the garden. A word of warning! Any little piece of stem or root can and probably will start a new plant. The only way I would recommend raising mint is in escape proof containers. The Lemon mint self-seeds itself prolifically. I have it popping up in all the beds each spring.

Wild Passion Flower Vine, with its sweet fragrance and exotic blooms, is also one of those plants that spread by underground runners. When I got the start to this beauty I planted it by my front porch and set a trellis so it could climb it. I thought this would be a nice place for visitors to view the lovely bloom and enjoy the sweet smell of its blossoms. The problem here was that the vine wasn’t content with staying by the trellis. It comes up in the shrubs, hedges, hostas, and hibiscus. It has spread to the neighbors yard again to their delight and mine NOT! It has spread all the way around to the other side of the house. God only knows where it will show up next.

Honey Locust Tree, I can’t forget this one. This tree has lovely clusters of pinkish-lavender blooms, but it also has a devilish habit of sending underground runners that pop up just where you usually don’t want them. I’ve dug starts out of my horseradish, iris, comphrey, thyme, etc. Oh well, it does have lovely blooms…

S. Johnson is the owner of Azeche Co. and creator of ShopAzeche.com and LetMeOutDoors.com. ShopAzeche.com is a popular home and garden website featuring products for every corner of your home including Quality Furniture, Cedar Trunks, Plush Pelt Throws and so much more. LetMeOutDoors.com features Patio and Garden Furniture, Decor, Yard Carts, Oilcloth Aprons, and Gardening supplies. Please visit both sites for your entire home and garden needs.

http://www.shopazeche.com
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